Fall Leaf Written Pattern & Stitch Diagram Update

Here's my finished example worked from this pattern and then wet blocked.

Previous post: http://theunknownorchard.blogspot.com/2015/09/fall-leaf-pattern.html

Bit of an update.  This seems to be pretty popular so I've revisited the pattern and made some changes as well as actually writing a row by row pattern.  This is quite an advanced pattern and not easy to write so leave me a comment below if you need some clarification or find a mistake.  I think the final result has come out pretty nice after some blocking.

Notes:

• When working on a right side row into the top of a double crochet from the previous round, I like to work into the back loops only to make the front loops pop out and create a line in the work.  When working on a wrong side row, work into the front loops only.
• You may need more or less chains to form the initial ring before you start.  There is not gauge for this, so find what works for you.  I found 12 chains worked well to place 24 double crochets into the ring.
• As you go, you will work less and less of the whole round as this is what causes the leaves to be different sizes.  For the sides of the leaves to taper down to a point, you'll need to omit some double crochets on the edges, which I've tried to explain in the pattern.  For me, I used the basic rule of leaving a gap of 3 double crochets unworked on the edges and one double crochet at the very edge.  You may find you like more or less to be unworked depending on the look you're going for.
• Previously I chose to finish the right half of the leaf as I went and the left with a final row of single crochet.  In this version, there will be a final row that works around the entire leaf so that the result is even all the way around.  The final row is easy to work, but hard to follow in a written pattern because it's so repetitive.  Just remember that you work a single crochet into the top of all the double crochets.  When you come to a chain space, you'll work (2 sc, picot, 2 sc) and when working into the standing stitches, you'll work 2 single crochet around each one as if you're working around a chain.  The diagram should help to explain all this.
• I've also changed the number of chains in the center of leaves from 2 to 3.  I like it a bit more roomy to work into.
• I use standing double crochet stitches frequently for the first stitch in a row.  You can do chain 3 if you like.  It should not make too much of a difference as you will cover a lot of them up later.  The diagram uses 3 chains to make it easy to see what you're doing and where the rows join.

Updated stitch diagram.

Chain 12 and join into a ring.
[Right side] rows: work into back loops only and chain spaces
[Wrong side] rows: work into front loops only and chain spaces

1. [Right side] Make a DC standing stitch: insert hook into the ring to yarn over. DC 23 more into the ring and join to the top of the first standing stitch (24)
2. [RS] Chain 1 and sc in same stitch. (Chain 3 and skip 1 stitch.  Sc in the back loop of the next DC.) Repeat around, slip into first sc.
3. [RS] Slip into the next chain space and make a standing DC and another DC into the space. Chain 3 and make 2 more DC in the same space. (2 DC in next chain space, chain 3, 2 more DC in same space) Repeat around.  Slip to the top of the first standing stitch.
4. [RS] Slip into the next chain space and make a standing DC and another 2 DC into the space.  Chain 3 and make 3 more DC in the same space.  (3 DC in the next chain space, chain 3, 3 more DC in the same space) Repeat around (12 total leaves). Slip to the top of the first standing stitch.
5. [RS] Make a standing DC in the top of the previous one from round 4.  Into the next chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC. Work 1 DC in the back loop of the next DC from previous round. (Skip 4 stitches and work into the back loop of the 5th stitch 1 DC.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 1 more DC into the back loop of the next DC from previous round) Repeat 7 more times for a total of 9 clusters, leaving three unworked where the smaller leaves and stem will be.  In the last repetition, place the last DC over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
6. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make a standing stitch (you are no longer working in the round).  Skip to the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Then work  DC into the front loop of the next two stitches.  (Skip 4 stitches and work into the front loops of the 5th and 6th stitches, placing 1 DC into each.  In the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work a DC in the front loop of each of the next two stitches.)  Repeat 7 more times for 9 total leaves.  In the last repetition, omit 2 DC from the edge (3 in the chain space, and 1 more into the standing stitch from the previous round for straight edge).
7. [Right Side] Chain 1 and turn.   Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch.  Sc 2.  Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  5 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC in the first stitch, then skip 2 stitches and place 1 DC BLO in the last stitch before the chain space.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC into the next 3 stitches BLO. (Skip 4 stitches and work into the back loop of the 5th, 6th, and 7th stitch 1 DC each.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 3 more DC into the back loops of the next 3 stitches.)  Repeat 5 more times.  In the last repetition, work the chain space, then place only 1 DC next to it and place the last DC over to the left (skip 3 stitches) between clusters to create a straight edge.
8. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 1 DC into the next stitch FLO. Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 4 DC in the front loops in the next 4 stitches.  (Skip 4 stitches and work into the back loop of the 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8ths stitch 1 DC each.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 4 more DC into the back loops of the next 4 stitches.)  Repeat 5 more times for 7 total leaves.  In the last repetition, place 1 DC after the chain space and the last DC over to the left between clusters (skip 3 stitches) to create a straight edge.
9. [Right Side] Chain 1 and turn.  Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch.  Sc 3.  Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  7 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC BLO, then skip 3 stitches and work 3 BLO DCs.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC BLO into the next 5 stitches. (Skip 4 stitches and work 5 DC into the back loop of the 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, and 9th stitch (1 DC in each).  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 5 more DC into the back loops of the next 5 stitches.)  Repeat 3 more times for a total of 5.  In the last repetition, place 3 DC after the last chain space, skip 3 and place 1 more over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
10. [Wrong Side]  Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 3 DC FLO.  Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 6 DC in the front loops in the next 6 stitches.  (Skip 4 stitches and work into the front loop of the 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th stitch 1 DC each.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 6 more DC into the back loops of the next 6 stitches.)  Repeat 3 more times.  In the last repetition, place only 5 DC and one last DC over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
11. [Right Side] Chain 1 and turn. Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch. Sc 5. Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  9 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC BLO, then skip 3 stitches and work 5 BLO DCs.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC BLO into the next 7 stitches. (Skip 4 stitches and work 7 DC into the back loop of the next 7 stitches (1 DC in each).  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 7 more DC into the back loops of the next 7 stitches.)  Repeat 1 more time.  In the last repetition, place 8 DC after the last chain space, skip 3 and place 1 more over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
12. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 5 DC FLO. Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 8 DC in the front loops in the next 8 stitches.(Skip 4 stitches and work into the front loop of the next 8 stitches (1 DC each). Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC. Work 8 more DC into the back loops of the next 8 stitches.)Repeat 1 more time.In the last repetition, place only 5 DC and one last DC over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
13. [Right Side]  Chain 1 and turn.  Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch.  Sc 7.  Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  11 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC BLO, then skip 3 stitches and work 7 BLO DCs.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC BLO into the next 7 stitches, skip 3 and place 1 more DC.
14. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 7 DC FLO. Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 7 more FLO DC, skip 3 stitches and place a last DC.
15. (This will get a bit wordy, so use your best judgement following this pattern and the diagram: In the top of double crochets, work a single crochet.  In chain spaces, work 2 sc, picot, 2 sc.  Down the side of standing stitches and double crochets, place 2 sc in each.  On the right half of the leaf, you'll only want to place 3.)  Chain 1 and turn. Skip 1 stitch and sc 9.  In the chain space, sc 2, picot, sc 2.  SC 10 down the other side. Sc 4 down the side of the 2 standing stitches (2 each around the DCs like working into a chain space).  Sc 11 up the next side, sc 2, picot, sc 2 in the chain space.  8 sc down the side.  4 sc down the side of the 2 standing stitches. Sc 9 up the next side, work chains space, sc 6.  4 sc down the side of the 2 standing stitches.  Sc 7, work the next chain space.  Sc 4 and work 4 down the side of the 2 standing stitches.  Sc 5, work the chain space. Sc 3, work 4 into the 2 standing stitches.  Sc 3, work the chain space, sc 3.  Sc 3, 2 sc in the chain space, chain X, then slip back X-1.  2 more sc in the chains space.  Sc 6, work chain space.  Sc 3, sc 4 up the 2 standing stitches.  3 sc, chain space, 5 sc.  3 sc up the standing stitches. 4 sc, chain space, 7sc.  3 up the standing stitches.  6 sc, work the chain space, 9 sc,  3 sc up the standing stitches.  8 sc, work the chain space, 10 sc. 3 up the standing stitches.  Finish with an invisible join.

P.S. A special hello to you if you came from Moogly or PetalstoPicots.  I love seeing everybody's projects there!

Moroccan Market Tote (free pattern from Moogly!)

I finally remembered to take some pictures of this bag that I finished a few weeks ago.  Not at all too soon, either, as I'm giving it as a timely gift for my boss's Summer birthday.

The pattern comes from mooglyblog: http://www.mooglyblog.com/moroccan-market-tote/ and I won (yes me I won something!) free yarn from her in this contest to make it: http://www.mooglyblog.com/lion-brand-yarn-moroccan-market-tote-giveaway/

The pattern is simple enough once you get the hang of it and it's all repeats, but complicated enough to give you some visual interest in the finished bag.  I chose to add some stripes around the top for an extra detail.  

The yarn is Lion Brand's 24/7 Cotton.  It's a bit of a strange looking yarn because of the way it's plied that makes it look like a little rope, but it was wonderful to work with.  The colors I chose are Ecru (the tan), Magenta (the dark pink), and Pink (the light pink).  (I also got some skeins of the jade, aqua, and grass because I really can't resist those colors so now I have more yarn for a different project!!)  This yarn was really fun to work with and has a perfect combination of sturdiness that I expect from cotton while also being soft and squishy.  I think it's partly how it's plied and spun and partly that it's a mercerized cotton, more like crochet thread than cotton yarn in feel and how it works up.  It is called a worsted weight yarn but it seemed on the thin side of worsted and I think I ended up using a smaller crochet hook than the packaging calls for to make the stitches more dense.

Posted my little pattern on ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/UnknownOrchard/moroccan-market-tote

Crochet Peacock Feather Earrings Design

This has been on my idea list for a long long time.  I'm trying to work through the list instead of just adding new ideas to it.  It's meant to be a revolving door, not a bottomless pit.

So the basic design for this will use the pattern for a simple crocheted circle, but I'll switch out stitch types to shape it and keep the stitch count for each row the same.  I may add some spike stitches for the light blue row and some longer stitches for the top of the last row to join it into the feather top.  I want to add some of the long dangly feather parts later and I'm thinking of doing them as a strip of broomstick lace like I use for doll hair sometimes.

I plan on using embroidery floss (not sure on the strand count yet) to make it small and intricate.  I may add a piece of wire partway through to add stability but I'll see how that goes.

Considering working in the back loops only to make a more pronounced color change.

I want to alternate each row where the increases are to make it more circular and less angular.

Draft Diagram:

Scrap yarn prototype:

Don't think I followed through on row three with my changes to include some triple crochets, and I'm not sure if the final round is better off with hdc or dc at the widest part.

Written pattern: (possible BLOs throughout for color changes)

1. 12 DC in ring [dark blue]
2. (HDC 2 in next)x2, (DC 2 in next)x8, (HDC 2 in next)x2 [darkblue]
3. Sc 1, sc 2 in next, (HDC 1, 2 in next)x3, DC 1, DC 2 in next, (TRC 1, 2 in next)x2, DC 1, DC 2 in next, (HDC 1, 2 in next)x3, Sc 1, sc 2 in next [light blue] (consider spike stitches at beginning and end of round)
4. (Sc 2 in next, sc 2)x2, (HDC 2 in next, HDC 2)x2, DC 2 in next, DC 2, (TRC 2 in next, TRC 2)x2, DC 2 in next, DC 2, (HDC 2 in next, HDC 2)x2, (Sc 2 in next, sc 2)x2 [gold or yellow]
5. (Sc 3, sc 2 in next)x3, (HDC 3, HDC 2 in next)x6, (Sc 3, sc 2 in next)x3 [green] (consider longer stitches at beginning and end of round)
6. Make some basic broomstick lace in green and add around - attach findings for earrings.

Now I just need to actually find some time and actually make them!

Actually working on something the next day and my mind hasn't wondered off to other projects.  Strange.

Thoughts...

• I like the colors.  They are I think all DMC.  796, 132A, 581, and 90A.  I have a darker green in 580 that I might use for the tassles.
• Alternating increases and BLO work has giving it a nice detail.  I also used a invisible color change/join.  I like that except for the first 2 rows, all the colors are done in one row each but I could change that.
• I used a size 1.10mm hook, mostly because I couldn't put my hand on the 1mm I wanted and the .85 was too small.  I think a slightly smaller hook will make it more compact and professional looking.
• Not sure on the final shape... the triple stitches don't hold their shape super well.  Maybe some blocking a smaller hook will change that.  I think the gold row could use some more longer stitches.

New version with 4 strands held together:

Thoughts:

• This is what I get for being so picky - now maybe it's too big - try just 3 strands held together?
• Spike stitches should go all the way down to the center and maybe add 1 or 2 more?
• Thing at the top didn't work, need more building up in surrounding stitches - also should I add a point at the bottom?
• Still using 1.10mm hook and it works much better with more thread.

First and second version together:

Little Doomguy Doll

Life's tough out there, you know?  Hell portals.. crazy scientists... levers opening up secret doors to ancient graphics... who knows what you're going to find.  That's why it's important to have a friend to help you through it all.

And just between you and me, it helps a lot if your friend has a chainsaw.

Ruuummmm rumm rummmmmm!

I had a tough time deciding when this one was 'finished'.  So many details...  I think it came out alright though.  He stands up on his own, even while holding the chainsaw.  I'm pretty impressed with him.  Good job, fella.  I like to imagine what Toy Story would be like if Andy got this instead of Woody.

Kuchi Kopi

My own little Kuchi Kopi from Bob's Burgers!  Once again this is a case of not being able to find an existing pattern for something I want to make so I made it a quick little weekend project of it.

Here's a little pattern so you can make one too! (Let me know if you find any mistakes.)

Yarns used:

• for the body: Sugar 'n Cream Hot Green (hook size F/5 3.75mm)
• for the eyes: Patons Grace Snow (steel hook #1 2.75mm)
• for the bow tie: Patons Grace Aquifer (steel hook #1 2.75mm)

You'll also need 2 black seed beads for the eyes and some stuffing.  I used poly-fil.

The body is worked from the bottom up and the head is worked from the top down and the two pieces are seamed in the middle.  (Leave a long tail on either the head or body for sewing.)  The seam is then hidden by the string for the bow tie.

Pattern:

Body: (Work by joining rows for the flat bottom and then in continuous rounds for the rest.)

1. 6 sc in magic ring. Slip to first sc. (6)
2. Chain 1, 2 sc in each stitch. Slip to first sc. (12)
3. Chain 1.  Sc, inc around.  Slip to first sc. (18)
4. Chain 1, 2 sc, inc around. Slip to first sc. (24)
5. Chain 1, sc in each stitch around in the back loop only. Don't slip to the first stitch, from here you will work continuously around. (24)
6. Sc 5, inc around (28)
7. Sc 6, inc around (32)
8. Sc 7, inc around (36)
9. Sc around (36)
10. Sc around (36)
11. Sc 4, decrease around (30)
12. Sc 3, decrease around (24)
13. Sc around.  Slip to the first sc.  There will be a bumpy edge that you will match up with the bump in the head. (24)
    

Head: (Work in continuous rounds.)

1. 6 sc in magic ring. (6)
2. Inc around (12)
3. Sc, inc around (18)
4. 2 sc, inc around (24)
5. 3 sc, inc around (30)
6. Sc around (30)
7. Sc around (30)
8. Sc around (30)
9. Sc around (30)
10. Sc around (30)
11. Sc 3, decrease around (24)
12. Sc around (24)

Stuff the body and head and use the tails to sew the two together.  They should meet nicely where the bumps line up.  Sew about 3/4 the way around and stuff more stuffing in to get the correct amount.

Ears: (Make two)

1. 4 sc in magic ring. Slip to first sc. (4)
2. Chain 1, 2 sc in each stitch.  Slip to first sc. (8)
3. Chain 1, sc around.  Slip to first sc. (8)

Leave a long tail and sew the pieces together at the bottom so they have a flat edge to attach to the head. (Don't stuff.)

Arms: (Make two)

1. 4 sc in magic ring (4)
2. Inc around (8)
3. Sc around (8)
4. Sc around (8)
5. 2 sc, dec around (6)
6. Sc around (6)

Leave a long tail and sew the pieces together at the top so they have a flat edge to attach to the body, just below the bow tie.  (Don't stuff.)  I also sewed the arms so they lie flat to the body.

Eyes: (Make two, working in a continuous spiral)

1. 6sc in magic ring (6)
2. Inc around (12)
3. Sc, inc around, slip to first sc. (18)

With sewing thread, attach a black seed bead to the center of the eye.

Bow tie: (Make a long chain that spans the neck of the doll, then slip into each stitch back to make the string.  Then make and attach the bow tie.)

1. Chain 2, sc in the first chain. (1)
2. Chain 1 and turn. 2 sc in the sc from row 1. (2)
3. Chain 1 and turn. 2 sc in the first, 1 sc in the next. (3)
4. Chain 1 and turn. 2 sc in the first, sc in the next 2 (4)
5. Chain 1 and turn. Sc across. (4)
6. Chain 1 and turn. Dec the first two stitches, sc in the next 2 (3)
7. Chain 1 and turn. Dec the first two stitches, sc in the next (2)
8. Chain 1 and turn. Dec the two stitches. (1)
9. Chain 1 and turn. Sc 1 (1)
10. - 16. Repeat rows 2 thru 8.

Use the starting tail and the end tail to tie the ends together.  Wrap the ends of the tail around the middle in the thin part to form the bow tie and knot twice on the back side.  Sew the bow tie to the string and attach the string to the doll.

Finishing touch: I like to add a row of slip stitches to the bottom of the doll on the loops that stick out from working in the back loops only.  This acts as a stand so it doesn't tip over as easily.

All the Dinosaurs Feared the T-Rex!

Here's my little Deadpool rendition of the super popular Timothy the T-rex pattern available from BluephoneStudios' etsy shop.  It's one paid patterns I didn't mind spending money on.  I followed the pattern, using red for the main color and black for the alternate color.  I did not add safety eyes because I wanted to add my own applique ones.  The black part is made by making 2 half circles and then single crocheting around the moon shape and the white is a simple 6sc in a magic ring.  I also started off the hands and feet with black and switched to red about halfway through.

Of course, Deadpool needs his little friend as well.  The unicorn was made from this super cute and simple pony pattern from Allaboutami.  I made a few alterations to this pattern as well.  I wanted a clean color change for the feet so I used a method where you slip around with the new color and then sc in the BLO of those slip stitches.  I also changed the hair to a simple series of curls made by chaining and then working 2 sc in each chain.  I think I chained maybe 15 to start.  The horn is made with size 10 crochet thread and a simple pattern: 4sc in mr, 4sc, then increase once in the next round and work even in the next.  Then you alternate adding one stitch to alternate rounds so it slowly grows.  I worked this part in continuous rounds to avoid a seam.

All done.  Now they are special pals!

Crochet Rose Applique

   

I don't normally buy crochet patterns.  Half the fun is figuring out how to make what I want.  Once in a while, though, I find something really pretty that someone has put a lot of time and effort into.  I found some really beautiful and intricate flower patterns on etsy a few weeks ago and I've been making tons of little rose appliques.  I was really impressed by how realistic her flower patterns are.  They call for very fine thread (size 20 crochet thread) which helps get that shaping.  Here's a link to the pattern that I bought:

https://www.etsy.com/transaction/1122932112

The shop is Happy Patty Crochet and she has tons of amazing flower patterns.

While the pattern is easily accessible, size 20 crochet thread can be hard to find for a good price in the colors you want.  I've ended up trying out a few alternatives.  Embroidery floss and thread for friendship bracelets have turned out to be some pretty good options.  The main benefit of course is the color availability.  Easily hundreds of colors in solids, variegated, metallics, etc, but in order to get the correct size for a 1mm hook, you need to work with just 2 strands held together, so there's a lot of thread separating to do.  For the friendship thread, you need to separate the two strands that are twisted together, which weakens the thread and can cause it to break if you're not really careful.

The rose in the photo above is made with three colors of friendship thread.  In the last picture is the thread before separating the two strands.  Once separated, the strands have a fuzzy soft quality that squishes the stitches together.  I really like how the final piece comes out, but the thread does break a lot so it's a pain to work with.

I love making really small projects and this finished flower is about 1 1/2 inches across.  Really fun!

How to Crochet Garter Stitch

Like many crocheters, I'm fascinated by crochet stitches that look knitted.  There are plenty of patterns for recreating stockinette but I've never seen one for garter.  I had a happy little accident today and figured out one way to do it.

This is worked in tunisian crochet and is very simple to do.  Chain any number you like and then pick up stitches in the chain back across.  I like to pick up stitches in the bump of the chain.  Work back pulling through 2 loops at a time like you normally would. When you go to pick up stitches in the next row, I pick up the stitches through the back bump loops on top instead of the vertical bars.  This is what creates the look of the garter stitch.  You're always working on the backside of the piece, so you'll need to turn it over to see how it's going.

Here's the crochet swatch next to one that is actually knitted:

Crochet on the left, knitting on the right.

Not exactly sure why I find this so exciting considering I know how to knit as well, but it was fun to play around with.

The Fleeb

Everyone has a plumbus in their home, but how do they make the plumbus?  Well I'll tell you: fleeb has a very instrumental role.  It's important that the fleeb is rubbed because the fleeb has all the fleeb juice.  But how do they make the fleeb in the first place?

Today on How They Do It: Fleeb

Body:
For the body of the Fleeb, cotton worsted weight yarn is used.  Make sure your 4mm hook shows up to rub the yarn.  The body consists of single crochets and bobble stitches.  (For these bobble stitches, work 4 double crochets together in the same stitch.  Make 1 body.

1. Sc 8 into a magic ring.  Slip to first stitch. (8)
2. Sc in first stitch, sc and bobble stitch in the next.  Repeat around. (12)
3. Sc 2, inc around (16)
4. Sc, sc + bobble around (24)
5. Sc 2, inc around (32)
6. Sc, bobble around (32)
7. Sc around (32)
8. Sc, bobble around (32)
9. Sc around (32)
10. Sc, bobble around (32)
11. Sc around (32)
12. Sc, bobble around (32)
13. Sc 2, dec around (24)
14. Dec, bobble around (16) [Stuff some polyfill in now]
15. Sc 2, dec around (12) [Stuff to satisfaction]
16. Dec, bobble around (8)
    Cut yarn and use tail to sew the remaining 8 stitches shut.  Weave in both ends.

Arms:

Using size 3 cotton crochet thread, we'll make the arms out of chains and slip stitches.

Chain 15 (the length of the arm) + 6 (the length of the first finger).  Slip stitch into the second chain on the hook and the next 4 stitches (5 slip stitches).  I work these into the back bump of the chain.  Now chain 6 more and slip back into the second chain from the hook and then next 4 stitches.  Repeat this one more time (ch 6, slip 5).  Now slip into the 15th chain from the beginning which is where the fingers meet the arm.  Slip into all of the rest of the chains.  Make 2 arms.

Eyes:

Using size 3 white cotton crochet thread, we'll make eyes and sew on a red bead for the pupil.

1. Sc 6 in a magic ring.  Slip to first stitch.
2. Chain 1, sc 2, sc 2, hdc 2, sc 2, sc 2, hdc 2, slip to first stitch.

Using red sewing thread a 2 seed beads, sew the beads onto the center of the eyes.  Make 2 eyes.

Construction:

The top of the fleeb will be row 1 and the decreases will be on the bottom where the fleeb juice comes out.  Sew on the arms using the two tails. (Thread one of the arms through the body, tie the two tails together and pull the tails through the work and cut.)  I have sewn my arms between rows 13 and 14, about 6 bobbles apart.

To attach the eyes, choose two bobbles in row 13 and push them inwards so they invert.  Place the eyes over the inverted bobbles and pin in place.  Use white sewing thread to attach.

The fleeb is now ready to aid in the construction of the plumbus.

3 Scoops Crochet Mittens

Diamond stitch cone and strawberry, chocolate, and vanilla ice cream.

Waffle stitch cone and raspberry, lime, and blue hawaiian sorbet.

Yay mittens!

I love ice cream in the winter.  Also all the other seasons, but especially in the winter.  These ice cream mittens are zero calorie and super fun to make. 

This was a fun opportunity to combine some different textural stitches I've been figuring out.  The cuff can be worked in either diamond stitch or waffle stitch or one of your own design.  There are also tons of variations for the ruffle at the bottom of the scoops of ice cream.  I used half double crochet and 3 scoops but you can really go wild.  I also alternated between half double crochet and BLO + third bump hdc to make it look like the little lines that form when you scoop.  The idea is to make the bottom part cone-y and the top part ice cream-y, so do whatever puts the nuts on your sundae.

You can customize the size to fit any hand during the first row.  The stitch count will be slightly different depending on what style cuff you want because the stitches are worked in different multiples.  It will be within a few stitches and I can't tell the difference in the two I made.  I didn't finish my thumbs but you could if you wanted.  I was playing around with the idea of making the top of the thumb part of the first scoop but then I got lazy.

I did plan ahead enough to leave a gap for my finger to stick out for my phone.  You can really do this with any mitten pattern and it's really easy.  Just make a chain or single crochet foundation row and skip some stitches in the appropriate place and keep going.

Hole for your finger!

Peek-a-boo!

The ruffle might be intimidating if you've never worked those 3D stitches before, but once you get the hang of it, you'll be thinking of everything you can do with it.  I decided on mostly half double crochet stitches for this project and that's what the ruffle uses too.  I tried a bunch of different stitch types and counts for the ruffle but I think I like this best (for this project at least).

Pattern

Stitches used (sort of a lot, sorry!): single crochet foundation row or double crochet foundation row, double crochet, half double crochet (plus increases and decreases), front post triple crochet two together, half double crochet 3D stitches, half double crochet worked in the back loop only + the third bump.

Yarn: worsted weight acrylic in multiple colors.  I used whatever colors I had in my stash - just have fun it doesn't have to be perfect.

Hook size: I used a 4mm (size 8 or F) hook but use whatever you like with your yarn.  I liked using a smaller size than the yarn called for to make the stitches tighter and less hole-y.

Gauge: Gauge is not super important, you just have to make sure you're choosing the correct number of stitches to start with.  I made one of each type of mitten so the stitch count is slightly different but they both still fit.  You can add or remove rows in several places to make it bigger or smaller.

Cone base (wrist):

• Option 1: Diamond Stitch Cone
  Diamond shaped stitches are worked by alternating rows of double crochet and single crochet with long post stitches dipping into the rows below.  Mooglyblog has a great project using this stitch.  This pattern repeats over 4 stitches and 4 rows.
  Row 1: SCFR 28 (this needs to fit around your wrist/forearm comfortably and can be any number in multiples of 4.  28 fit me best with my yarn and hook.) Slip to first stitch and use the tail to connect the bottom of the stitches.
  Row 2: DC in each stitch (28)
  Row 3: This is the first row of the diamond stitch with single crochets and long post stitches. Ch 1, sc 3, FPTRC2tog in the 2nd and 6th stitch from the first row of scfr.  Skip the next stitch and sc 3.  You'll then repeat this around, working 3 sc and then working post stitches together in the first row, skipping 3 stitches between each when you place the posts. (This can be confusing if you've never worked the diamond stitch before.)
  Row 4: DC around (28)
  Row 5: Ch 1, sc 1, FPTRC2tog, sk1, sc 3 (repeat around)
  Row 6-9: repeat rows 2-5
  Row 10: HDC around (28)
  Don't break yarn - move down to hand section
• Option 2: Waffle Stitch Cone
  The waffle stitch is worked in multiples of 3 stitches over two rows.
  Row 1: DCFR 27 (this needs to fit around your wrist/forearm comfortably and can be any number in multiples of 3.  27 fit me best with my yarn and hook.) Slip to first stitch and use the tail to connect the bottom of the stitches.
  Row 2: Ch2 and DC in the same space (or make a standing double crochet).  Back post DC in the next 2 stitches. Repeat 1 DC, 2 BPDC around (27)
  Row 3: Ch 2 (don't count this as a stitch) FPDC around the normal DC from the last row and DC normally into the 2 BPDC from the last row.  Repeat this around.
  Row 4-7: Repeat rows 2 and 3 twice.
  Row 8. HDC increase once, HDC around (28) (this is because you need an even number in the next section)
  Row 9. HDC around, working into the black loop and the third bump (3rd bump adds stability) (28)
  Row 10: There's not a row 10 for this stitch.  Have a drink - you've earned it!
  Don't break yarn - move down to hand section

Cone top (hand): Using whatever base you selected, you will now start increasing in one side to make room for the thumb.  I like to mark my increases with a stitch marker so I don't have to count: mark the first stitch of the first increase and the second stitch of the second increase and make your subsequent increases in the marked stitches.  Move your markers up in each row.

Row 11: Both bases should have 28 stitches in their final row.  Working into your base: HDC inc in the first two stitches and HDC around (30)
Row 12: HDC inc, HDC 2, HDC inc, HDC around (32)

Row 13: HDC inc, HDC 4, HDC inc, HDC around (34)

Row 14: HDC inc, HDC 6, HDC inc, HDC around (36)

Row 15: HDC inc, HDC 8, HDC inc, HDC around (38)

Row 16: HDC inc, HDC 10, HDC inc, HDC around (40)

Row 17: HDC inc, HDC 12, HDC inc, HDC around (42)

1st Ice Cream Scoop: In the first row, you will separate the thumb from the rest of the hand.  If it feels wrong for your hand, you can move the stitches around a little for more or less thumb room.

Row 18: Place a stitch marker into the 2nd and 15th stitch to pin them together. You will be working single crochets in the back loop and the 3rd bump of the HDCs in the row below.  With an ice creamy color, sc in the first stitch, then into the 16th stitch.  The thumb is now isolated from the rest of the hand.  (Try it on now and adjust it a little if it doesn't fit.  Make sure the hand has an even number of stitches.)  Sc around (28)

Row 19: HDC around (28)

Row 20: This row is the ruffle at the bottom of the scoop.  We will be working around the half double crochets from the previous row.  When you work into the top of the stitches, only work into the front loop.  You will use the back loop in row 21, so be careful not to use it now.  To create the ruffle, you'll be working 3D HDCs around the posts of each stitch and also into the top of the stitch and the sc from 2 rows ago.  Ch 2.  In the first stitch, work in the front loop only, HDC 2.  Then you will work 2 HDC around the post of the next HDC from the previous round.  (To do this, turn your work 90 degrees clockwise.)  Then put 2 HDC into the Sc from 2 rows ago.  Next, you'll work 2 HDC into the next post (turning counterclockwise helps here).  You've now completed one repeat of the ruffle stitch.  Keep working around until you get back to the beginning and slip into the first HDC.  You now need to 'get back' down to work into the back loops of HDCs from row 19. Slip stitch into the ch 2 at the beginning of the row and also into the back loop of the first stitch from row 19.
Row 21: HDC into the back loop only of round 19 and also the 3rd bump (adds stability) (28)

Row 22: HDC around (28) (For added texture, alternate regular HDCs and working into the back loop + third bump)

Row 23: HDC around (28) (For added texture, alternate working into the back loop + third bump and regular HDCs)

2nd Ice Cream Scoop: Start a new color, join in any stitch. (I like to keep my seam on the thumb side of the mitten.)

Row 24: Sc in the back loop and third bump of the HDC below (28)

Row 25: HDC around (28)

Row 26: Repeat row 20

Row 27: Repeat row 21

Row 28: Repeat row 22

Row 29: In this row you will work 2 HDC decreases and HDC around the rest of the stitches.  The decreases should be placed on either side when the mitten is laid flat.  Your stitch count may be different than mine.  (26)

3rd Ice Cream Scoop: With a new color, join in any stitch.

Row 30: Sc in the back loop and third bump (26).  If you want to leave a small hole for your finger to stick out so you can swipe your smart phone, sc around until you reach the place your finger will stick out.  Either chain 4-5 or scfr 4-5 and then skip 4-5 stitches and keep sc'ing around.

Row 31: HDC around, making 2 decreases, one in each side of the mitten (24)

Row 32: Work row 20 again

Row 33: HDC in the first two stitches, dec and repeat around (18)

Row 34: HDC, dec around (12) 

Row 35: Dec around and close with tail.  You're all done!

Learning to Knit (if you already know how to crochet)

I learned to crochet first, and then learned to knit.  Why not, right?  I already had some spare yarn lying around and thought that knowing crochet should be beneficial in learning knitting.  In this case, it turns out that I made some major assumptions about knitting that I probably would not have if I started knitting first.  The key is figuring out which bits of information transfer to knitting and which do not.  I've been knitting for 2-3 years now and it's a wonderful addition to your arsenal of crafty knowledge.  Hopefully this little mini-guide will help save someone else the frustration I went through.  Here's what I learned:

1. Learn how to look things up and keep yourself organized.  If you get stuck, google it or youtube it.  Especially in knitting, a video is worth a bajillion words.  I keep a bookmark folder on my browser for helpful tips I find and things I want to be able to refer back to later.  I also have a pinterest board just for knitting so I can keep everything in one place.  Also - if you don't already know about ravelry.com - go there!  It's a library of patterns for crochet and knitting plus a forum, plus help, plus awesome people.  You will need to make an account, but you'll probably end up wanting one anyway so you can keep track of projects you want to make.
   
2. Holy crap there are so many abbreviations!  This may be true for crochet too, but you're already used to those and it doesn't seem like a big deal anymore.  You're going to have to get used to a whole new list of letters.  Get ahold of a nice guide to knitting abbreviations, like this one from craftyarncouncil.com.
   
3. Where to start with knitting needles?  There are three main types of knitting needles.  (Crochet only really has 1.  It's a hook.  You hook with it.  There is a slight style difference between in-line and tapered hooks and you can put a fancy handle on it, but it's still a stick with a hook on the end and there's just one kind.)  Knitting needles are what you will be using to create your knitting projects (just like your crochet hook in crochet).  There need to be more than just one type of needle, because in knitting, you make all your loops for a row at once, so you need somewhere for them to hang out until you come back to them.  For knitting a flat item, you will either want to work it on straight needles, or on circular needles with a cable (but don't join, just work flat).  For working an item in the round, you will want to use either a set of double pointed needles, or circular needles with a cable.  So here are the three types of needles (and keep in mind that there are different sizes, lengths, etc for each type):
   
   3A. Straight needles.  These look like a big old toothpick with a stopper on the end.  Here are some pictures of straight knitting needles.  These needles come in sets of 2.  For a typical project worked on these needles, you will 'cast on' (in crochet you start with a chain, but in knitting you will start by casting on, or placing your first set of loops on your needles) stitches to one needle and then use the second needle to work the loops into stitches.  Your work will travel back and forth between the two needles.  In my completely ignorant opinion, I'm guessing these were the first kind ever made way back in the day.  You make some flat panels and if you want, sew them together to make clothes.
   3B. Double pointed needles.  (Nobody says 'double pointed needles' be the way, they say "DPNs".  See? Another abbreviation, just for the damn needles!)  These come in set of 4 or 5 and they are smaller versions of the straight needles except they have no stoppers on the end.  Here are some pictures of DPNs (double pointed needles).  These are used to work items in the round.  You will 'cast on' stitches onto one, and then distribute them onto 2 or 3 more needles to form a circle and work around and around, using a spare needle to work the stitches.  So this was probably the second kind or idea of needles.  "Hey!", said someone, "Let's just make the garment in the round so we don't have to sew up the seams later.  I hate weaving in Ye Olde Yarn Tailes!"
   3C. Circular needles.  These are the weird looking ones.  They look like two straight needles connected by a flexible cord.  Here are some pictures of circular needles.  You can work both flat and in-the-round items and they allow you to make very small or very large items.  Because these are a combination of straight and double pointed needles, you can use these exclusively to make any project.  (I'm sure there are exceptions, but these are my go-to needles.)  Important note about these needles - you have some options (of course you have more options, like three different styles of needles were not enough!).  These come in two different styles, fixed and interchangeable.  Fixed means that the cords are stuck onto the needles and don't come off.  If it comes off, it means it's broken.  With interchangeable, the needles and cords unscrew from each other so you can use different cords with different needles.  (You can also get cord connectors to make a super super long cord.)  This is the exact set that I own: Knitter's Pride Dreamz Deluxe Interchangeable Long Tip Knitting Needle Set 200601  Just one more note about using these.  One of the limitations of the circular cords is that they are fixed lengths.  If you try to make a small item on a long cord, your stitches will stretch and you won't be able to continue.  There is a method of knitting called the Magic Loop Method (look this up!!) that fixes this and it will be your new best friend and you will plan a June wedding with it.  These needles are my favorite!  This is the needle of the era of having plastic and glue and stuff.
   
   So - where to start?  What should you buy?  Just like with starting to crochet, you may want to start by buying a little "Learn to Knit", or "My First Little Knitting Thingy Set".  Think about how you started to crochet - probably with just one or two hooks and some standard worsted weight yarn and you learned how to chain and then single crochet or whatever.  That's probably how you should start knitting, too.  You will probably not want to buy my favorite set of circular needles for $60 the first day you start knitting.  (Unless you're made of money, because then go ahead, who's counting?)  Even if you end up loving one style of needles, you'll probably still use the other kinds occasionally.  Get a set of standard size (to match whatever yarn you'll be practicing with) straight needles and get the basics down before trying anything complicated.
   
4. What your needles are made out of matters.  With crochet, it didn't seem to make much of a difference if my hooks were aluminum (my favorite), or acrylic or wood or whatever.  You're using the hook part to manipulate the yarn, so who cares?  With knitting, you'll want to figure out what works best for you.  I like wooden needles.  Aluminum, which worked so great for my favorite crochet hooks, feels awkward for a knitting needle because it's so slippery that my stitches ended up falling off the needles before I could work them.
   
5. Basic stitches.  So in crochet, you start with a chain stitch to make a long chain, then you work into those chains using single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, etc stitches.  You can also slip stitch and make big giant stitches by wrapping your yarn a whole bunch first.  In knitting, you start a project by 'casting on', which means adding a bunch of loops to your needles, and then into those cast on loops you work either a knit stitch or a purl stitch (knitting just has 2 basic stitches, the knit and the purl).  Then at the very end, you 'bind off'' your loops and your item is done.  But!!, it's not that easy (of course it's not!).  Although knitting may just have two basic stitches, there is a huge variety of ways you can do your cast on and bind off.  Like a frigging million ways.  But don't worry and don't get overwhelmed - just find one way you like and remember that way to start out.  The first way I learned to cast on was I think just the basic knitted cast on.  My favorite way now is the long-tail cast on.  So why are there so many ways?  Style and structure.  Some look prettier than others.  Simple!  The other reason is structure: one of the benefits of knitted fabric is that you can control how stretchy your fabric is.  So, you will probably want your fabric's stretchiness to match your cast on's stretchiness.  If your cast on is too tight or too loose, it might ruin a garment.  Same with your bind off, or finishing of your stitches.  Here's a nice little guide on Craftsy of some basic cast ons.
   
   One more point about actually working your stitches.  Where the yarn is when you're working your stitches matters.  There are two options: behind the work and in front of the work.  Pay attention to where your yarn is and what stitches you're working.  Beginner guides to knitting should mention where to put it but here are two basic rules to remember: when you make a knit stitch, your working yarn should be held in the back (before you go to make the stitch, move your yarn to the back) and when you go to make a purl stitch, the yarn should be in front of the work or on the side toward your body (before you go to make the purl, move the yarn to the front.)  If you don't put it in the right place, you'll make an 'accidental yarn over', which is adding another loop of yarn to your work that you didn't want and will look confusing when you come back on the other side of the row.
   
6. Increasing and decreasing.  Again, knitting has a lot more options for increasing and decreasing than crochet does.  Normally your patterns will tell you what kind to use.  This is because they can look very different and can be the difference between a nice looking project and a crappy one.  And again with these, they don't have a nice name, they're all abbreviations, so keep a guide handy and be aware that you'll probably have to look them up each time you run across them.
   
7. How to place a marker in knitting.  This is one of those examples of something that you think "Ok how hard can this be, I know how to do this in crochet."  Wrong!  The shape of the markers are different and the use is also different.  In crochet, you use a marker with a hook shape to go around the actual yarn of your stitch.  (I use paperclips with the ends bent up.)  When you come back to that stitch, you know your marker means you do something special or it's the beginning of your last round or whatever.  In knitting, markers are closed circles/rings and they slide onto your needle between the stitches.  So instead of referring to a specific stitch, a marker will be a stopping point between stitches and you will know you need to do something special starting at that point.  Your pattern will tell you something like "knit until two stitches before the marker" or "slip the marker (abbreviated "sm")".  Slipping the marker just means move it over to the next needle - nothing special there.  Markers for knitting are inexpensive.  You can buy some here, or make your own.  You can even just use a loop of contrasting color yarn!
   
8. Basic types of knitted fabric.  There are a few types of fabric you'll want to master before moving on to more complicated patterns.  You'll be using the two basic stitch types: knit stitch and purl stitch.  The point of this is to learn how those two stitches interact with each other and how they look when worked on the front and back of the same fabric.  Keep in mind that this will be different depending on if you're working on a flat piece and turning it back and forth, or working in the round and only ever working on one side.
   
   A. Stockinette stitch.  This fabric is the classic knitted style featuring neat rows of V's.  (If you look at any of your t-shirts or sweatshirts, you will see tiny rows of machine made V's - same thing!)  To make this as a flat piece, you knit every stitch on the right side (which makes the V shape) and purl every stitch on the wrong side of the fabric (purls and knits are sort of the opposite of each other, so a purl on the wrong side will look like a knit on the right side).  In the round, you will knit every row, because you will only be working on the right side of the fabric.  Pictures of stockinette stitch.
   
   B. Garter stitch.  This fabric looks like little rows of ruffles.  In a flat piece, it's made by knitting every stitch.  In the round, it's made by knitting and purling alternating rows.  Pictures of garter stitch.
   
   C. Rib stitches.  Ribbing refers to vertical stripes of alternating knits and purls on the same side (instead of working all the stitches knit or purl like in stockinette or garter, you will switch between knitting and purling on the same side in the same row)  So ribs are made by alternating groups of knit and purl stitches of any number, but commonly you will work ribs of knit 1/purl 1, or knit 2/purl 2.  The knit stitches (looks like a V) tend to push out toward the front of the garment while purl stitches (looks like a horizontal bar) tend to push backward.  This creates a wavy, stretchy, ribbed fabric.
   More info on knit stitches.
   
9. How to hold your yarn and needles.  In crochet, you hold the hook in your dominant hand and the yarn with your other hand.  Makes sense - you're doing all the real work with just one hand.  In knitting, both hands are a little more involved.  There are two styles of knitting: 1. English (hold the working yarn in your RIGHT hand) and 2. Continental (hold the working yarn in your LEFT hand).  The difference is pure personal preference.  Here's the interesting part to me.  Because you already crochet, and probably already hold the yarn in your left hand, most people will tell you that it will be easier to work continental and just keep holding that yarn in your left hand.  I found the opposite to be true.  You're not used to actually manipulating the yarn with your non-dominant hand like you will need to do with knitting.  You will probably want to learn both eventually because there are benefits to both, but I suggest starting with the English (yarn in the right hand) style.  I liked starting with this because each stitch felt like it's own separate, distinct process, so I could get used to making the stitches without a lot of finger waggling and stitch dropping.  This way also helps you use the yarn's own tension to pull the stitches where they need to go.
   
10. A note on how to use the needles.  Because I crocheted already, I found myself subconsciously trying to use the needle as a crochet hook, and it will probably happen to you, too.  If you find yourself trying to coax your yarn with the tip of the needle, you're probably having this issue.  The key to knitting is to poke the needle into and out of your loops and slide the needle back and forth to manipulate the yarn.
    
11. Dropping stitches.  This is apparently like the boogey man of knitting or something.  The crochet version, if there is one at all, would be accidentally pulling on your working yarn and ripping out the stitches you just made.  It's a bit of a bigger deal in knitting, because you have all your loops open and on the needles.  If you accidentally drop a stitch off of your needles, each loop below that loop in a vertical line can come unworked, all the way down to your cast on edge.  Fixing dropped stitches is not a big deal.  It's really not.  It may be difficult at first to identify exactly what's going on, but you have an advantage as a crocheter, because... you fix knitting mistakes with a crochet hook!  That's right!  You're already set up and ready to go because you already crochet.  (When I knit, I like to keep an appropriate size crochet hook nearby in case this happens.)  There are already a lot of guides out there that show you step by step exactly how to pick up dropped stitches, so I will just outline the process: (step 1 is don't freak out because you'll make it worse.  Gently set your knitting down on a flat surface and don't touch it until you identify exactly what's going on) basically you find where your stitch has stopped unraveling, stick your hook into the loop to keep it from ripping out more and chain just like in crochet, using the yarn in each row above to pull up a new loop to replicate what your knitting looked like.  I would suggest (after you learn how to make stitches) that you do this on purpose so you can learn what it looks like and how to fix it.  Make a little swatch of stockinette, work a few rows, then drop one stitch off your hook and tug on it a little and watch how the knitting unravels down each row.  Then figure out how to fix it so it won't be a big deal later during a project.  The more stitches that drop off, the harder it will be to fix, so do knit carefully!
    
    Lifelines: Something you should learn about right away is how to use a Lifeline.  All this is, is yarn of a contrasting color that you weave into your knitting with a yarn needle to keep it from unraveling in case you drop a stitch.  You may want to do this every few rows as you start out, or after you finish a particularly difficult row.  It works just like your knitting needle does.  There's something inside the loop, so it can't pull out.
    
12. Learn how to 'read' your knitting.  You should also do this with your crochet.  (And if you can't look at your crocheted work and figure out what you did, now is a great time to take a moment and learn - it will help you when you start to knit as well!)  It will make you a better knitter/crocheter, help you fix your mistakes, and help you look at completed knitting/crocheting and identify how it was made.  Also - you will be able to figure out exactly where you are in a pattern or row so you don't have to start over.  Learning to read your work does take some time and experience, but keep in mind that it will come faster if you pay careful attention to what your stitches look like when you make them.  Don't just concentrate on getting it done, watch how the stitches are getting formed and what they look like before and after they are worked.  The main step to getting started is to be able to identify the difference between a knit stitch and a purl stitch.  When you look at the work directly below your loop on the needle, you with either see a "V" shape (that's a knit) or a little horizontal bar (that's a purl).  Be sure to work loosely enough so you can see the difference.  Here is a great guide I love about how to read your knitting.
    
13. Learn how to do Tunisian Crochet.  Tunisian crochet is a great transition from crochet to knitting because it's like a combination of both of them.  There are special tunisian hooks you can buy, but you can also just use your current crochet hooks.  You'll learn how to pull up stitches onto your hook all along the row and then work them so you can get used to having a bunch of loops on your knitting needles.  My absolute favorite tunisian guides are from Mikey at the Crochet Crowd.
    
14. How do you knit something that is longer than your needles?  This was a big burning question I had when I first started knitting.  In crochet, you can go as long as you want because you're completing each stitch as make it.  Not so with knitting - all those loops need a place to live until you bind off.  There are really two answers to this question.  One is - make a bunch of pieces and then sew them together to get the length you want.  The other - using very long cables on circular needles (and connect multiple cables with connectors) to get the length that you want.

So - getting started and some final thoughts...

There are a million knitting 101 guides, so really just pick one and start going.  (Just don't pay for one.  Remember that any company that wants to sell you yarn will give you information and patterns for free.  And there are a lot of yarn companies out there.  For example, here's a complete free guide on how to knit from Lion Brand.)  I would suggest learning how to cast on (any method) and then pull it off your needles and do it again until it feels natural.  Then learn how to work the knit stitch and just knit all your loops back and forth until that feels natural too.  Then learn to purl, then learn to use knit and purl to make patterns.  Then learn to bind off (any method).

Ok so once you've got all that down, you'll probably want to know what your first project should be.  I recommend making a scarf.  It's simple in design and has no increases or decreases.  You can make it any dimension you want and use any combo of knits and purls you want.  If that sounds boring, google 'first knitting project' and find something you like.  Keep in mind that your choice of yarn will make a difference.  Pick a fiber content that is slightly stretchy and can take a bit of a beating.  Acrylic is perfect, but I would not recommend cotton (no stretch).  No need to spend a boat load of money for your first try.  Make sure it's a light color because they are easier to work with.  Pick a thickness of yarn that will be easy to use as well - the bigger the better in my opinion.  Worsted weight will work just fine too, just don't go too small that you can't see what you're doing.

One last little tip.  I like to keep a project journal for all my creative endeavors, whether it be knitting, crochet, origami, sewing, etc. where I write down the date, the project, the materials, etc so I can look back on it and see what I've done already.  This is especially helpful for recalling what brand/color/size/hook/needle that you used for a project.  If you ever want to know, it's all right there in your journal.  I use a big graph paper notebook just like this one.

I hope you give knitting a try!

Crochet Frozen Dolls

One little set

Two little sets

Finally done with both sets of these!

The wonderful body pattern for these dolls comes from Beth Webber.  Here is the pattern link on ravelry.  I made my own little pattern for Olaf and the clothes, hair, and details I did myself.

Time to package them up and ship them off.

Easy Double Crochet Rings

(Hey guys - special shout out to those visiting from crochet concupiscence!)

This method uses the double crochet foundation row method with a slight variation.  For the standard DCFR (double crochet foundation row), you pull up an extra loop (or chain 1) before completing each double crochet so you can avoid chaining at the beginning of a project.  (You can also use SC or HDC for this!)

In order to make a ring with a hole in the middle, you alternate chaining one before the double crochet and omitting the chain to create a DC2tog stitch.  This is for the smallest size you can make (24 stitches).  This is replicating row 2 of a typical circular crochet pattern (DC 12 in a ring, DC 2 in each DC from round 1).

You can use this method to make any size ring.  Figure out which row you would be on and what the total stitches would be, as well as what the pattern would be, and work that as a foundation row rather than into a row below.

So for example, to make a ring with 120 stitches (row 10 of a typical flat, circular crochet project), you would make a DCFR with the following pattern: Chain 3, DC in the first chain (your first inc is complete), DC 8, (inc, DC 8) x5.

This leaves you with a nice finished edge on the outside and inside, and you don't have to chain to start.  Variations on this pattern are endless.

My Super Boring Hobby

I have a lot of 'boring' hobbies that involve staying inside and slapping around pieces of things until they make something else.  I have to restrain my excitement when I talk to people about what I do with my free time, because to most people, this is the equivalent of watching paint dry.  I love it though!  This is one of those hobbies.

Whenever I find a cool free crochet pattern online, I like to make a diagram of it for fun.  I like making little pictures and understanding construction through graphics.

Here's an example from Moogly's Fortune's Wrap.

Row 1 says to chain 6, dc in the 4th chain, chain 1 & skip a chain, then dc in the last chain.  So I draw my little yarn tail, 6 chains, dc, chain, and dc.  Sometimes I like to fade the colors of each step so you can tell what order you're doing things and what direction you're going.

Row 1

Then for this pattern, you turn your work, so I turn the graphic around and turn it 90 degrees to the right so I'm ready for the next row.

Row 2 says to chain 6, dc in the 4th chain from the hook, chain 1 & skip the next stitch, then dc in the last ch so first I make that part in blue.  Then you put a slip stitch, chain, double crochet, chain 1, double crochet in the chain 3 space from the first row, so I put that in a different color.

Woo so fun!

How to Crochet a Faux Bullion Stitch Two Ways

I recently discovered the bullion stitch.  I love that I'm always finding new stitches and techniques to try but some of them are a real mess.  It looks amazing, but it's such a huge pain to make that I doubt I will be using them for anything extensive in the near future.  Mine were coming out looking like demented little tornadoes with all the loops popping off.

So here are two ways I've come up with to make a bullion-looking stitch without so much hassle:

1. The yarn over/horizontal puff stitch method

One row complete

Three rows complete

This looks pretty similar to the bullion stitch and you can adjust the height and how many loops you want wrapped around it.  You may have to poke the yarn on top a bit to get the loops into perfect position.  You can see on my little swatch that you have some half-looking loops, but that is fully correctable.  I didn't do anything fancy here, just worked three rows and worked each stitch in between the two below it, but you could work them right on top of each other and also include a single crochet or half double crochet row between the bullion stitches depending on how you want it to look.  I think it looks like a lot of little blue captain crunches.

This method is worked very similarly to how you would make a puff stitch, a lot of yarn overs and pulling loops up into the same space.  The difference here is that instead of working directly into a stitch from the row below, you'll make a chain and work around the chain as if you're doing a post stitch.  I have a lot of notes in the 'pattern' below because you can make a ton of variations for this depending on how you want to do it.

Directions: I started by chaining an odd number so that I would have a chain to skip between each stitch as these are bulky. (You could also make a single crochet foundation row that might be a little easier to work into.)  After the last chain, chain 3 more (or chain a lot more if you want a super tall stitch - it's totally up to you!) that will act as your first post.  Then yarn over, and reach the hook around the back of the chain as if you're working a post stitch and pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook).  Then you want to repeat this yarning over and pulling up a loop around the back of your chain a few more times (I did a total of three yarn over/loop pull ups around my 3 chains which will give you 7 loops on your hook, as 2 new loops are added for every repetition of yarn over/pull up loop.)  Then I yarned over one more time and pulled up a loop into the same beginning chain that I made my initial chain 3 into.  This is to secure the base of your stitch to the starting chain.  Then using the loop you just pulled up, continue pulling it through all of the loops you've created on your hook with the yarn over/pull ups.  (It may be easier to yarn over one more time and use that loop to pull through all the loops but I think it looks a little cleaner to do it the other way.)

To work more stitches, I chose to skip the next chain and insert my hook into the second chain away and chain 3 with the working yarn.  This way, you have nothing connecting your stitches in between them. You could make a really convenient crochet hook holder with these stitches because you can weave something big back and forth between the bullions very easily.  One additional variable you can throw in is that instead of chaining 3 for a post at the beginning of each stitch, you can work a double or triple crochet if you prefer that to chaining.  If you still want all your stitches to have spaces between, then be sure to wrap your hook fully around your double crochet including the yarn over bar.  This can be a little tricky because you're putting a lot of bulk into a small area and it's hard to see the bar.  The big difference is that the chain 3 will make the stitch a little flatter and the double crochet will make it a little fatter, so you decide if you want it flat or round.  One very last cool thing about this: if you weave your hook back and forth between these stitches after completing a row, it almost acts like a ribbing where half the stitches are pushed forward and half are pushed back and your hook will disappear in the middle.  Cool possibilities!

2. The double bullion/hairpin lace method

One row complete (into single crochet foundation row)

Two rows complete, you can see the right and wrong side

This method is similar to the other one, but you work your steps in a bit of a reverse order.  You start the same way by chaining/foundation chaining to set up, then either chain a few stitches or work a double crochet and work around it like a post.  The difference here is that instead of starting with a yarn over, you'll start by pulling up a loop around the back of your post, then yarning over and pulling through that loop and repeating, so you'll be working one half of the double bullion as you work around the post, and then at the end, you'll complete the second half by drawing through all the loops on your hook.  These have a 'double' look, or when scrunched together, look like double the amount of thinner stitches.  I say this is a hairpin lace method because the front and back do not look exactly alike, and there is a definite right side/wrong side when you use this one.  The back looks like a little hairpin lace or skeleton ribs to me.

Directions: Set up some chains or single crochet foundation row.  I worked into an odd number (but you can see in the photos that my side stitches bulge out a little, so maybe add a few?) and left one chain between each stitch.  To begin each stitch, either chain however many you want tall (I used 3) or double/triple crochet.  Now reach your hook around the back of the chain like a post stitch and pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through that one loop.  Then repeat pulling up a loop around the back and pulling a loop through it, each time adding one more loop to your hook.  When you have reached the bottom of your chain or double crochet, pull up a loop in the chain or stitch below your work to secure the stitch in place, then either pull that loop up and through all the loops or pull another loop through that one and then through all the others.

To work more stitches, skip one chain or stitch and work into every other stitch across your row.

You can see in the photo above that there is a right side/wrong side here, where you can see little bumps in the middle of your stitch in the wrong side.  You might want to work alternating rows of this stitch and single crochet or half double or something in order to keep your right sides facing out.

As far as I know, you can do everything with these two stitches that you could with a regular bullion stitch without the hassle.  Yay!