Fall Leaf Paper Lantern

This picture wouldn't focus because it was dark and it turned out all artsy.

A Saturday in the middle of October is perfect for making paper lanterns.  The days are getting darker and colder and I need some candles in my life.

This is a fairly simple project to make and you can customize it for any holiday or occasion.

I started with a piece of 12 x 12 paper that came in a big book from Michael's and cut it in half so I had 2 pieces of 6 x 12.  It's not truly 12 x 12 so there's an extra little lip to help glue the sides together.

It's a bit hard to see but the above photo is divided into 4 sections that are 3 inches wide plus a tiny lip on one side.  I used a bone folder to score the paper so it would fold easily.

Trace a leaf shape on each of the 4 big panels.  You could put anything on there, I just happen to have some leaf templates from the wreath I'm making.

Carefully cut out the leaf shapes with a very sharp exacto blade or craft knife.  I use a piece of cardboard underneath from an Amazon box.  I cut out the leaf in one piece so I have the leaf shapes to put on the table for decoration.

Here are all the leaves cut out and the right side of the paper up.

Next I cut out a rough rectangle of white tissue paper big enough to fit over the entire card stock.

Trim down the tissue paper to size and attach it to the back side of the paper.  I like to use this tape adhesive so the papers don't wrinkle and there is no mess.  It makes a huge difference in projects like this.  Once the tissue paper is attached, you can connect up the sides of the box using the thin tab on the side.

All done.  I did not put a bottom on the box so that it's easier to use with a candle.  Feeling cozy and ready for cooler weather.

Fall Leaf Written Pattern & Stitch Diagram Update

Here's my finished example worked from this pattern and then wet blocked.

Previous post: http://theunknownorchard.blogspot.com/2015/09/fall-leaf-pattern.html

Bit of an update.  This seems to be pretty popular so I've revisited the pattern and made some changes as well as actually writing a row by row pattern.  This is quite an advanced pattern and not easy to write so leave me a comment below if you need some clarification or find a mistake.  I think the final result has come out pretty nice after some blocking.

Notes:

• When working on a right side row into the top of a double crochet from the previous round, I like to work into the back loops only to make the front loops pop out and create a line in the work.  When working on a wrong side row, work into the front loops only.
• You may need more or less chains to form the initial ring before you start.  There is not gauge for this, so find what works for you.  I found 12 chains worked well to place 24 double crochets into the ring.
• As you go, you will work less and less of the whole round as this is what causes the leaves to be different sizes.  For the sides of the leaves to taper down to a point, you'll need to omit some double crochets on the edges, which I've tried to explain in the pattern.  For me, I used the basic rule of leaving a gap of 3 double crochets unworked on the edges and one double crochet at the very edge.  You may find you like more or less to be unworked depending on the look you're going for.
• Previously I chose to finish the right half of the leaf as I went and the left with a final row of single crochet.  In this version, there will be a final row that works around the entire leaf so that the result is even all the way around.  The final row is easy to work, but hard to follow in a written pattern because it's so repetitive.  Just remember that you work a single crochet into the top of all the double crochets.  When you come to a chain space, you'll work (2 sc, picot, 2 sc) and when working into the standing stitches, you'll work 2 single crochet around each one as if you're working around a chain.  The diagram should help to explain all this.
• I've also changed the number of chains in the center of leaves from 2 to 3.  I like it a bit more roomy to work into.
• I use standing double crochet stitches frequently for the first stitch in a row.  You can do chain 3 if you like.  It should not make too much of a difference as you will cover a lot of them up later.  The diagram uses 3 chains to make it easy to see what you're doing and where the rows join.

Updated stitch diagram.

Chain 12 and join into a ring.
[Right side] rows: work into back loops only and chain spaces
[Wrong side] rows: work into front loops only and chain spaces

1. [Right side] Make a DC standing stitch: insert hook into the ring to yarn over. DC 23 more into the ring and join to the top of the first standing stitch (24)
2. [RS] Chain 1 and sc in same stitch. (Chain 3 and skip 1 stitch.  Sc in the back loop of the next DC.) Repeat around, slip into first sc.
3. [RS] Slip into the next chain space and make a standing DC and another DC into the space. Chain 3 and make 2 more DC in the same space. (2 DC in next chain space, chain 3, 2 more DC in same space) Repeat around.  Slip to the top of the first standing stitch.
4. [RS] Slip into the next chain space and make a standing DC and another 2 DC into the space.  Chain 3 and make 3 more DC in the same space.  (3 DC in the next chain space, chain 3, 3 more DC in the same space) Repeat around (12 total leaves). Slip to the top of the first standing stitch.
5. [RS] Make a standing DC in the top of the previous one from round 4.  Into the next chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC. Work 1 DC in the back loop of the next DC from previous round. (Skip 4 stitches and work into the back loop of the 5th stitch 1 DC.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 1 more DC into the back loop of the next DC from previous round) Repeat 7 more times for a total of 9 clusters, leaving three unworked where the smaller leaves and stem will be.  In the last repetition, place the last DC over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
6. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make a standing stitch (you are no longer working in the round).  Skip to the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Then work  DC into the front loop of the next two stitches.  (Skip 4 stitches and work into the front loops of the 5th and 6th stitches, placing 1 DC into each.  In the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work a DC in the front loop of each of the next two stitches.)  Repeat 7 more times for 9 total leaves.  In the last repetition, omit 2 DC from the edge (3 in the chain space, and 1 more into the standing stitch from the previous round for straight edge).
7. [Right Side] Chain 1 and turn.   Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch.  Sc 2.  Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  5 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC in the first stitch, then skip 2 stitches and place 1 DC BLO in the last stitch before the chain space.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC into the next 3 stitches BLO. (Skip 4 stitches and work into the back loop of the 5th, 6th, and 7th stitch 1 DC each.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 3 more DC into the back loops of the next 3 stitches.)  Repeat 5 more times.  In the last repetition, work the chain space, then place only 1 DC next to it and place the last DC over to the left (skip 3 stitches) between clusters to create a straight edge.
8. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 1 DC into the next stitch FLO. Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 4 DC in the front loops in the next 4 stitches.  (Skip 4 stitches and work into the back loop of the 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8ths stitch 1 DC each.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 4 more DC into the back loops of the next 4 stitches.)  Repeat 5 more times for 7 total leaves.  In the last repetition, place 1 DC after the chain space and the last DC over to the left between clusters (skip 3 stitches) to create a straight edge.
9. [Right Side] Chain 1 and turn.  Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch.  Sc 3.  Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  7 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC BLO, then skip 3 stitches and work 3 BLO DCs.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC BLO into the next 5 stitches. (Skip 4 stitches and work 5 DC into the back loop of the 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, and 9th stitch (1 DC in each).  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 5 more DC into the back loops of the next 5 stitches.)  Repeat 3 more times for a total of 5.  In the last repetition, place 3 DC after the last chain space, skip 3 and place 1 more over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
10. [Wrong Side]  Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 3 DC FLO.  Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 6 DC in the front loops in the next 6 stitches.  (Skip 4 stitches and work into the front loop of the 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th stitch 1 DC each.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 6 more DC into the back loops of the next 6 stitches.)  Repeat 3 more times.  In the last repetition, place only 5 DC and one last DC over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
11. [Right Side] Chain 1 and turn. Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch. Sc 5. Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  9 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC BLO, then skip 3 stitches and work 5 BLO DCs.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC BLO into the next 7 stitches. (Skip 4 stitches and work 7 DC into the back loop of the next 7 stitches (1 DC in each).  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 7 more DC into the back loops of the next 7 stitches.)  Repeat 1 more time.  In the last repetition, place 8 DC after the last chain space, skip 3 and place 1 more over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
12. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 5 DC FLO. Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 8 DC in the front loops in the next 8 stitches.(Skip 4 stitches and work into the front loop of the next 8 stitches (1 DC each). Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC. Work 8 more DC into the back loops of the next 8 stitches.)Repeat 1 more time.In the last repetition, place only 5 DC and one last DC over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
13. [Right Side]  Chain 1 and turn.  Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch.  Sc 7.  Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  11 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC BLO, then skip 3 stitches and work 7 BLO DCs.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC BLO into the next 7 stitches, skip 3 and place 1 more DC.
14. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 7 DC FLO. Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 7 more FLO DC, skip 3 stitches and place a last DC.
15. (This will get a bit wordy, so use your best judgement following this pattern and the diagram: In the top of double crochets, work a single crochet.  In chain spaces, work 2 sc, picot, 2 sc.  Down the side of standing stitches and double crochets, place 2 sc in each.  On the right half of the leaf, you'll only want to place 3.)  Chain 1 and turn. Skip 1 stitch and sc 9.  In the chain space, sc 2, picot, sc 2.  SC 10 down the other side. Sc 4 down the side of the 2 standing stitches (2 each around the DCs like working into a chain space).  Sc 11 up the next side, sc 2, picot, sc 2 in the chain space.  8 sc down the side.  4 sc down the side of the 2 standing stitches. Sc 9 up the next side, work chains space, sc 6.  4 sc down the side of the 2 standing stitches.  Sc 7, work the next chain space.  Sc 4 and work 4 down the side of the 2 standing stitches.  Sc 5, work the chain space. Sc 3, work 4 into the 2 standing stitches.  Sc 3, work the chain space, sc 3.  Sc 3, 2 sc in the chain space, chain X, then slip back X-1.  2 more sc in the chains space.  Sc 6, work chain space.  Sc 3, sc 4 up the 2 standing stitches.  3 sc, chain space, 5 sc.  3 sc up the standing stitches. 4 sc, chain space, 7sc.  3 up the standing stitches.  6 sc, work the chain space, 9 sc,  3 sc up the standing stitches.  8 sc, work the chain space, 10 sc. 3 up the standing stitches.  Finish with an invisible join.

P.S. A special hello to you if you came from Moogly or PetalstoPicots.  I love seeing everybody's projects there!