Fall Leaf Written Pattern & Stitch Diagram Update

Here's my finished example worked from this pattern and then wet blocked.

Previous post: http://theunknownorchard.blogspot.com/2015/09/fall-leaf-pattern.html

Bit of an update.  This seems to be pretty popular so I've revisited the pattern and made some changes as well as actually writing a row by row pattern.  This is quite an advanced pattern and not easy to write so leave me a comment below if you need some clarification or find a mistake.  I think the final result has come out pretty nice after some blocking.

Notes:

• When working on a right side row into the top of a double crochet from the previous round, I like to work into the back loops only to make the front loops pop out and create a line in the work.  When working on a wrong side row, work into the front loops only.
• You may need more or less chains to form the initial ring before you start.  There is not gauge for this, so find what works for you.  I found 12 chains worked well to place 24 double crochets into the ring.
• As you go, you will work less and less of the whole round as this is what causes the leaves to be different sizes.  For the sides of the leaves to taper down to a point, you'll need to omit some double crochets on the edges, which I've tried to explain in the pattern.  For me, I used the basic rule of leaving a gap of 3 double crochets unworked on the edges and one double crochet at the very edge.  You may find you like more or less to be unworked depending on the look you're going for.
• Previously I chose to finish the right half of the leaf as I went and the left with a final row of single crochet.  In this version, there will be a final row that works around the entire leaf so that the result is even all the way around.  The final row is easy to work, but hard to follow in a written pattern because it's so repetitive.  Just remember that you work a single crochet into the top of all the double crochets.  When you come to a chain space, you'll work (2 sc, picot, 2 sc) and when working into the standing stitches, you'll work 2 single crochet around each one as if you're working around a chain.  The diagram should help to explain all this.
• I've also changed the number of chains in the center of leaves from 2 to 3.  I like it a bit more roomy to work into.
• I use standing double crochet stitches frequently for the first stitch in a row.  You can do chain 3 if you like.  It should not make too much of a difference as you will cover a lot of them up later.  The diagram uses 3 chains to make it easy to see what you're doing and where the rows join.

Updated stitch diagram.

Chain 12 and join into a ring.
[Right side] rows: work into back loops only and chain spaces
[Wrong side] rows: work into front loops only and chain spaces

1. [Right side] Make a DC standing stitch: insert hook into the ring to yarn over. DC 23 more into the ring and join to the top of the first standing stitch (24)
2. [RS] Chain 1 and sc in same stitch. (Chain 3 and skip 1 stitch.  Sc in the back loop of the next DC.) Repeat around, slip into first sc.
3. [RS] Slip into the next chain space and make a standing DC and another DC into the space. Chain 3 and make 2 more DC in the same space. (2 DC in next chain space, chain 3, 2 more DC in same space) Repeat around.  Slip to the top of the first standing stitch.
4. [RS] Slip into the next chain space and make a standing DC and another 2 DC into the space.  Chain 3 and make 3 more DC in the same space.  (3 DC in the next chain space, chain 3, 3 more DC in the same space) Repeat around (12 total leaves). Slip to the top of the first standing stitch.
5. [RS] Make a standing DC in the top of the previous one from round 4.  Into the next chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC. Work 1 DC in the back loop of the next DC from previous round. (Skip 4 stitches and work into the back loop of the 5th stitch 1 DC.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 1 more DC into the back loop of the next DC from previous round) Repeat 7 more times for a total of 9 clusters, leaving three unworked where the smaller leaves and stem will be.  In the last repetition, place the last DC over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
6. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make a standing stitch (you are no longer working in the round).  Skip to the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Then work  DC into the front loop of the next two stitches.  (Skip 4 stitches and work into the front loops of the 5th and 6th stitches, placing 1 DC into each.  In the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work a DC in the front loop of each of the next two stitches.)  Repeat 7 more times for 9 total leaves.  In the last repetition, omit 2 DC from the edge (3 in the chain space, and 1 more into the standing stitch from the previous round for straight edge).
7. [Right Side] Chain 1 and turn.   Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch.  Sc 2.  Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  5 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC in the first stitch, then skip 2 stitches and place 1 DC BLO in the last stitch before the chain space.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC into the next 3 stitches BLO. (Skip 4 stitches and work into the back loop of the 5th, 6th, and 7th stitch 1 DC each.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 3 more DC into the back loops of the next 3 stitches.)  Repeat 5 more times.  In the last repetition, work the chain space, then place only 1 DC next to it and place the last DC over to the left (skip 3 stitches) between clusters to create a straight edge.
8. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 1 DC into the next stitch FLO. Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 4 DC in the front loops in the next 4 stitches.  (Skip 4 stitches and work into the back loop of the 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8ths stitch 1 DC each.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 4 more DC into the back loops of the next 4 stitches.)  Repeat 5 more times for 7 total leaves.  In the last repetition, place 1 DC after the chain space and the last DC over to the left between clusters (skip 3 stitches) to create a straight edge.
9. [Right Side] Chain 1 and turn.  Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch.  Sc 3.  Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  7 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC BLO, then skip 3 stitches and work 3 BLO DCs.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC BLO into the next 5 stitches. (Skip 4 stitches and work 5 DC into the back loop of the 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, and 9th stitch (1 DC in each).  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 5 more DC into the back loops of the next 5 stitches.)  Repeat 3 more times for a total of 5.  In the last repetition, place 3 DC after the last chain space, skip 3 and place 1 more over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
10. [Wrong Side]  Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 3 DC FLO.  Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 6 DC in the front loops in the next 6 stitches.  (Skip 4 stitches and work into the front loop of the 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th stitch 1 DC each.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 6 more DC into the back loops of the next 6 stitches.)  Repeat 3 more times.  In the last repetition, place only 5 DC and one last DC over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
11. [Right Side] Chain 1 and turn. Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch. Sc 5. Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  9 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC BLO, then skip 3 stitches and work 5 BLO DCs.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC BLO into the next 7 stitches. (Skip 4 stitches and work 7 DC into the back loop of the next 7 stitches (1 DC in each).  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 7 more DC into the back loops of the next 7 stitches.)  Repeat 1 more time.  In the last repetition, place 8 DC after the last chain space, skip 3 and place 1 more over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
12. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 5 DC FLO. Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 8 DC in the front loops in the next 8 stitches.(Skip 4 stitches and work into the front loop of the next 8 stitches (1 DC each). Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC. Work 8 more DC into the back loops of the next 8 stitches.)Repeat 1 more time.In the last repetition, place only 5 DC and one last DC over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
13. [Right Side]  Chain 1 and turn.  Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch.  Sc 7.  Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  11 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC BLO, then skip 3 stitches and work 7 BLO DCs.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC BLO into the next 7 stitches, skip 3 and place 1 more DC.
14. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 7 DC FLO. Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 7 more FLO DC, skip 3 stitches and place a last DC.
15. (This will get a bit wordy, so use your best judgement following this pattern and the diagram: In the top of double crochets, work a single crochet.  In chain spaces, work 2 sc, picot, 2 sc.  Down the side of standing stitches and double crochets, place 2 sc in each.  On the right half of the leaf, you'll only want to place 3.)  Chain 1 and turn. Skip 1 stitch and sc 9.  In the chain space, sc 2, picot, sc 2.  SC 10 down the other side. Sc 4 down the side of the 2 standing stitches (2 each around the DCs like working into a chain space).  Sc 11 up the next side, sc 2, picot, sc 2 in the chain space.  8 sc down the side.  4 sc down the side of the 2 standing stitches. Sc 9 up the next side, work chains space, sc 6.  4 sc down the side of the 2 standing stitches.  Sc 7, work the next chain space.  Sc 4 and work 4 down the side of the 2 standing stitches.  Sc 5, work the chain space. Sc 3, work 4 into the 2 standing stitches.  Sc 3, work the chain space, sc 3.  Sc 3, 2 sc in the chain space, chain X, then slip back X-1.  2 more sc in the chains space.  Sc 6, work chain space.  Sc 3, sc 4 up the 2 standing stitches.  3 sc, chain space, 5 sc.  3 sc up the standing stitches. 4 sc, chain space, 7sc.  3 up the standing stitches.  6 sc, work the chain space, 9 sc,  3 sc up the standing stitches.  8 sc, work the chain space, 10 sc. 3 up the standing stitches.  Finish with an invisible join.

P.S. A special hello to you if you came from Moogly or PetalstoPicots.  I love seeing everybody's projects there!

Kuchi Kopi

My own little Kuchi Kopi from Bob's Burgers!  Once again this is a case of not being able to find an existing pattern for something I want to make so I made it a quick little weekend project of it.

Here's a little pattern so you can make one too! (Let me know if you find any mistakes.)

Yarns used:

• for the body: Sugar 'n Cream Hot Green (hook size F/5 3.75mm)
• for the eyes: Patons Grace Snow (steel hook #1 2.75mm)
• for the bow tie: Patons Grace Aquifer (steel hook #1 2.75mm)

You'll also need 2 black seed beads for the eyes and some stuffing.  I used poly-fil.

The body is worked from the bottom up and the head is worked from the top down and the two pieces are seamed in the middle.  (Leave a long tail on either the head or body for sewing.)  The seam is then hidden by the string for the bow tie.

Pattern:

Body: (Work by joining rows for the flat bottom and then in continuous rounds for the rest.)

1. 6 sc in magic ring. Slip to first sc. (6)
2. Chain 1, 2 sc in each stitch. Slip to first sc. (12)
3. Chain 1.  Sc, inc around.  Slip to first sc. (18)
4. Chain 1, 2 sc, inc around. Slip to first sc. (24)
5. Chain 1, sc in each stitch around in the back loop only. Don't slip to the first stitch, from here you will work continuously around. (24)
6. Sc 5, inc around (28)
7. Sc 6, inc around (32)
8. Sc 7, inc around (36)
9. Sc around (36)
10. Sc around (36)
11. Sc 4, decrease around (30)
12. Sc 3, decrease around (24)
13. Sc around.  Slip to the first sc.  There will be a bumpy edge that you will match up with the bump in the head. (24)
    

Head: (Work in continuous rounds.)

1. 6 sc in magic ring. (6)
2. Inc around (12)
3. Sc, inc around (18)
4. 2 sc, inc around (24)
5. 3 sc, inc around (30)
6. Sc around (30)
7. Sc around (30)
8. Sc around (30)
9. Sc around (30)
10. Sc around (30)
11. Sc 3, decrease around (24)
12. Sc around (24)

Stuff the body and head and use the tails to sew the two together.  They should meet nicely where the bumps line up.  Sew about 3/4 the way around and stuff more stuffing in to get the correct amount.

Ears: (Make two)

1. 4 sc in magic ring. Slip to first sc. (4)
2. Chain 1, 2 sc in each stitch.  Slip to first sc. (8)
3. Chain 1, sc around.  Slip to first sc. (8)

Leave a long tail and sew the pieces together at the bottom so they have a flat edge to attach to the head. (Don't stuff.)

Arms: (Make two)

1. 4 sc in magic ring (4)
2. Inc around (8)
3. Sc around (8)
4. Sc around (8)
5. 2 sc, dec around (6)
6. Sc around (6)

Leave a long tail and sew the pieces together at the top so they have a flat edge to attach to the body, just below the bow tie.  (Don't stuff.)  I also sewed the arms so they lie flat to the body.

Eyes: (Make two, working in a continuous spiral)

1. 6sc in magic ring (6)
2. Inc around (12)
3. Sc, inc around, slip to first sc. (18)

With sewing thread, attach a black seed bead to the center of the eye.

Bow tie: (Make a long chain that spans the neck of the doll, then slip into each stitch back to make the string.  Then make and attach the bow tie.)

1. Chain 2, sc in the first chain. (1)
2. Chain 1 and turn. 2 sc in the sc from row 1. (2)
3. Chain 1 and turn. 2 sc in the first, 1 sc in the next. (3)
4. Chain 1 and turn. 2 sc in the first, sc in the next 2 (4)
5. Chain 1 and turn. Sc across. (4)
6. Chain 1 and turn. Dec the first two stitches, sc in the next 2 (3)
7. Chain 1 and turn. Dec the first two stitches, sc in the next (2)
8. Chain 1 and turn. Dec the two stitches. (1)
9. Chain 1 and turn. Sc 1 (1)
10. - 16. Repeat rows 2 thru 8.

Use the starting tail and the end tail to tie the ends together.  Wrap the ends of the tail around the middle in the thin part to form the bow tie and knot twice on the back side.  Sew the bow tie to the string and attach the string to the doll.

Finishing touch: I like to add a row of slip stitches to the bottom of the doll on the loops that stick out from working in the back loops only.  This acts as a stand so it doesn't tip over as easily.

How to Crochet Garter Stitch

Like many crocheters, I'm fascinated by crochet stitches that look knitted.  There are plenty of patterns for recreating stockinette but I've never seen one for garter.  I had a happy little accident today and figured out one way to do it.

This is worked in tunisian crochet and is very simple to do.  Chain any number you like and then pick up stitches in the chain back across.  I like to pick up stitches in the bump of the chain.  Work back pulling through 2 loops at a time like you normally would. When you go to pick up stitches in the next row, I pick up the stitches through the back bump loops on top instead of the vertical bars.  This is what creates the look of the garter stitch.  You're always working on the backside of the piece, so you'll need to turn it over to see how it's going.

Here's the crochet swatch next to one that is actually knitted:

Crochet on the left, knitting on the right.

Not exactly sure why I find this so exciting considering I know how to knit as well, but it was fun to play around with.

The Fleeb

Everyone has a plumbus in their home, but how do they make the plumbus?  Well I'll tell you: fleeb has a very instrumental role.  It's important that the fleeb is rubbed because the fleeb has all the fleeb juice.  But how do they make the fleeb in the first place?

Today on How They Do It: Fleeb

Body:
For the body of the Fleeb, cotton worsted weight yarn is used.  Make sure your 4mm hook shows up to rub the yarn.  The body consists of single crochets and bobble stitches.  (For these bobble stitches, work 4 double crochets together in the same stitch.  Make 1 body.

1. Sc 8 into a magic ring.  Slip to first stitch. (8)
2. Sc in first stitch, sc and bobble stitch in the next.  Repeat around. (12)
3. Sc 2, inc around (16)
4. Sc, sc + bobble around (24)
5. Sc 2, inc around (32)
6. Sc, bobble around (32)
7. Sc around (32)
8. Sc, bobble around (32)
9. Sc around (32)
10. Sc, bobble around (32)
11. Sc around (32)
12. Sc, bobble around (32)
13. Sc 2, dec around (24)
14. Dec, bobble around (16) [Stuff some polyfill in now]
15. Sc 2, dec around (12) [Stuff to satisfaction]
16. Dec, bobble around (8)
    Cut yarn and use tail to sew the remaining 8 stitches shut.  Weave in both ends.

Arms:

Using size 3 cotton crochet thread, we'll make the arms out of chains and slip stitches.

Chain 15 (the length of the arm) + 6 (the length of the first finger).  Slip stitch into the second chain on the hook and the next 4 stitches (5 slip stitches).  I work these into the back bump of the chain.  Now chain 6 more and slip back into the second chain from the hook and then next 4 stitches.  Repeat this one more time (ch 6, slip 5).  Now slip into the 15th chain from the beginning which is where the fingers meet the arm.  Slip into all of the rest of the chains.  Make 2 arms.

Eyes:

Using size 3 white cotton crochet thread, we'll make eyes and sew on a red bead for the pupil.

1. Sc 6 in a magic ring.  Slip to first stitch.
2. Chain 1, sc 2, sc 2, hdc 2, sc 2, sc 2, hdc 2, slip to first stitch.

Using red sewing thread a 2 seed beads, sew the beads onto the center of the eyes.  Make 2 eyes.

Construction:

The top of the fleeb will be row 1 and the decreases will be on the bottom where the fleeb juice comes out.  Sew on the arms using the two tails. (Thread one of the arms through the body, tie the two tails together and pull the tails through the work and cut.)  I have sewn my arms between rows 13 and 14, about 6 bobbles apart.

To attach the eyes, choose two bobbles in row 13 and push them inwards so they invert.  Place the eyes over the inverted bobbles and pin in place.  Use white sewing thread to attach.

The fleeb is now ready to aid in the construction of the plumbus.

3 Scoops Crochet Mittens

Diamond stitch cone and strawberry, chocolate, and vanilla ice cream.

Waffle stitch cone and raspberry, lime, and blue hawaiian sorbet.

Yay mittens!

I love ice cream in the winter.  Also all the other seasons, but especially in the winter.  These ice cream mittens are zero calorie and super fun to make. 

This was a fun opportunity to combine some different textural stitches I've been figuring out.  The cuff can be worked in either diamond stitch or waffle stitch or one of your own design.  There are also tons of variations for the ruffle at the bottom of the scoops of ice cream.  I used half double crochet and 3 scoops but you can really go wild.  I also alternated between half double crochet and BLO + third bump hdc to make it look like the little lines that form when you scoop.  The idea is to make the bottom part cone-y and the top part ice cream-y, so do whatever puts the nuts on your sundae.

You can customize the size to fit any hand during the first row.  The stitch count will be slightly different depending on what style cuff you want because the stitches are worked in different multiples.  It will be within a few stitches and I can't tell the difference in the two I made.  I didn't finish my thumbs but you could if you wanted.  I was playing around with the idea of making the top of the thumb part of the first scoop but then I got lazy.

I did plan ahead enough to leave a gap for my finger to stick out for my phone.  You can really do this with any mitten pattern and it's really easy.  Just make a chain or single crochet foundation row and skip some stitches in the appropriate place and keep going.

Hole for your finger!

Peek-a-boo!

The ruffle might be intimidating if you've never worked those 3D stitches before, but once you get the hang of it, you'll be thinking of everything you can do with it.  I decided on mostly half double crochet stitches for this project and that's what the ruffle uses too.  I tried a bunch of different stitch types and counts for the ruffle but I think I like this best (for this project at least).

Pattern

Stitches used (sort of a lot, sorry!): single crochet foundation row or double crochet foundation row, double crochet, half double crochet (plus increases and decreases), front post triple crochet two together, half double crochet 3D stitches, half double crochet worked in the back loop only + the third bump.

Yarn: worsted weight acrylic in multiple colors.  I used whatever colors I had in my stash - just have fun it doesn't have to be perfect.

Hook size: I used a 4mm (size 8 or F) hook but use whatever you like with your yarn.  I liked using a smaller size than the yarn called for to make the stitches tighter and less hole-y.

Gauge: Gauge is not super important, you just have to make sure you're choosing the correct number of stitches to start with.  I made one of each type of mitten so the stitch count is slightly different but they both still fit.  You can add or remove rows in several places to make it bigger or smaller.

Cone base (wrist):

• Option 1: Diamond Stitch Cone
  Diamond shaped stitches are worked by alternating rows of double crochet and single crochet with long post stitches dipping into the rows below.  Mooglyblog has a great project using this stitch.  This pattern repeats over 4 stitches and 4 rows.
  Row 1: SCFR 28 (this needs to fit around your wrist/forearm comfortably and can be any number in multiples of 4.  28 fit me best with my yarn and hook.) Slip to first stitch and use the tail to connect the bottom of the stitches.
  Row 2: DC in each stitch (28)
  Row 3: This is the first row of the diamond stitch with single crochets and long post stitches. Ch 1, sc 3, FPTRC2tog in the 2nd and 6th stitch from the first row of scfr.  Skip the next stitch and sc 3.  You'll then repeat this around, working 3 sc and then working post stitches together in the first row, skipping 3 stitches between each when you place the posts. (This can be confusing if you've never worked the diamond stitch before.)
  Row 4: DC around (28)
  Row 5: Ch 1, sc 1, FPTRC2tog, sk1, sc 3 (repeat around)
  Row 6-9: repeat rows 2-5
  Row 10: HDC around (28)
  Don't break yarn - move down to hand section
• Option 2: Waffle Stitch Cone
  The waffle stitch is worked in multiples of 3 stitches over two rows.
  Row 1: DCFR 27 (this needs to fit around your wrist/forearm comfortably and can be any number in multiples of 3.  27 fit me best with my yarn and hook.) Slip to first stitch and use the tail to connect the bottom of the stitches.
  Row 2: Ch2 and DC in the same space (or make a standing double crochet).  Back post DC in the next 2 stitches. Repeat 1 DC, 2 BPDC around (27)
  Row 3: Ch 2 (don't count this as a stitch) FPDC around the normal DC from the last row and DC normally into the 2 BPDC from the last row.  Repeat this around.
  Row 4-7: Repeat rows 2 and 3 twice.
  Row 8. HDC increase once, HDC around (28) (this is because you need an even number in the next section)
  Row 9. HDC around, working into the black loop and the third bump (3rd bump adds stability) (28)
  Row 10: There's not a row 10 for this stitch.  Have a drink - you've earned it!
  Don't break yarn - move down to hand section

Cone top (hand): Using whatever base you selected, you will now start increasing in one side to make room for the thumb.  I like to mark my increases with a stitch marker so I don't have to count: mark the first stitch of the first increase and the second stitch of the second increase and make your subsequent increases in the marked stitches.  Move your markers up in each row.

Row 11: Both bases should have 28 stitches in their final row.  Working into your base: HDC inc in the first two stitches and HDC around (30)
Row 12: HDC inc, HDC 2, HDC inc, HDC around (32)

Row 13: HDC inc, HDC 4, HDC inc, HDC around (34)

Row 14: HDC inc, HDC 6, HDC inc, HDC around (36)

Row 15: HDC inc, HDC 8, HDC inc, HDC around (38)

Row 16: HDC inc, HDC 10, HDC inc, HDC around (40)

Row 17: HDC inc, HDC 12, HDC inc, HDC around (42)

1st Ice Cream Scoop: In the first row, you will separate the thumb from the rest of the hand.  If it feels wrong for your hand, you can move the stitches around a little for more or less thumb room.

Row 18: Place a stitch marker into the 2nd and 15th stitch to pin them together. You will be working single crochets in the back loop and the 3rd bump of the HDCs in the row below.  With an ice creamy color, sc in the first stitch, then into the 16th stitch.  The thumb is now isolated from the rest of the hand.  (Try it on now and adjust it a little if it doesn't fit.  Make sure the hand has an even number of stitches.)  Sc around (28)

Row 19: HDC around (28)

Row 20: This row is the ruffle at the bottom of the scoop.  We will be working around the half double crochets from the previous row.  When you work into the top of the stitches, only work into the front loop.  You will use the back loop in row 21, so be careful not to use it now.  To create the ruffle, you'll be working 3D HDCs around the posts of each stitch and also into the top of the stitch and the sc from 2 rows ago.  Ch 2.  In the first stitch, work in the front loop only, HDC 2.  Then you will work 2 HDC around the post of the next HDC from the previous round.  (To do this, turn your work 90 degrees clockwise.)  Then put 2 HDC into the Sc from 2 rows ago.  Next, you'll work 2 HDC into the next post (turning counterclockwise helps here).  You've now completed one repeat of the ruffle stitch.  Keep working around until you get back to the beginning and slip into the first HDC.  You now need to 'get back' down to work into the back loops of HDCs from row 19. Slip stitch into the ch 2 at the beginning of the row and also into the back loop of the first stitch from row 19.
Row 21: HDC into the back loop only of round 19 and also the 3rd bump (adds stability) (28)

Row 22: HDC around (28) (For added texture, alternate regular HDCs and working into the back loop + third bump)

Row 23: HDC around (28) (For added texture, alternate working into the back loop + third bump and regular HDCs)

2nd Ice Cream Scoop: Start a new color, join in any stitch. (I like to keep my seam on the thumb side of the mitten.)

Row 24: Sc in the back loop and third bump of the HDC below (28)

Row 25: HDC around (28)

Row 26: Repeat row 20

Row 27: Repeat row 21

Row 28: Repeat row 22

Row 29: In this row you will work 2 HDC decreases and HDC around the rest of the stitches.  The decreases should be placed on either side when the mitten is laid flat.  Your stitch count may be different than mine.  (26)

3rd Ice Cream Scoop: With a new color, join in any stitch.

Row 30: Sc in the back loop and third bump (26).  If you want to leave a small hole for your finger to stick out so you can swipe your smart phone, sc around until you reach the place your finger will stick out.  Either chain 4-5 or scfr 4-5 and then skip 4-5 stitches and keep sc'ing around.

Row 31: HDC around, making 2 decreases, one in each side of the mitten (24)

Row 32: Work row 20 again

Row 33: HDC in the first two stitches, dec and repeat around (18)

Row 34: HDC, dec around (12) 

Row 35: Dec around and close with tail.  You're all done!

How to Crochet a Faux Bullion Stitch Two Ways

I recently discovered the bullion stitch.  I love that I'm always finding new stitches and techniques to try but some of them are a real mess.  It looks amazing, but it's such a huge pain to make that I doubt I will be using them for anything extensive in the near future.  Mine were coming out looking like demented little tornadoes with all the loops popping off.

So here are two ways I've come up with to make a bullion-looking stitch without so much hassle:

1. The yarn over/horizontal puff stitch method

One row complete

Three rows complete

This looks pretty similar to the bullion stitch and you can adjust the height and how many loops you want wrapped around it.  You may have to poke the yarn on top a bit to get the loops into perfect position.  You can see on my little swatch that you have some half-looking loops, but that is fully correctable.  I didn't do anything fancy here, just worked three rows and worked each stitch in between the two below it, but you could work them right on top of each other and also include a single crochet or half double crochet row between the bullion stitches depending on how you want it to look.  I think it looks like a lot of little blue captain crunches.

This method is worked very similarly to how you would make a puff stitch, a lot of yarn overs and pulling loops up into the same space.  The difference here is that instead of working directly into a stitch from the row below, you'll make a chain and work around the chain as if you're doing a post stitch.  I have a lot of notes in the 'pattern' below because you can make a ton of variations for this depending on how you want to do it.

Directions: I started by chaining an odd number so that I would have a chain to skip between each stitch as these are bulky. (You could also make a single crochet foundation row that might be a little easier to work into.)  After the last chain, chain 3 more (or chain a lot more if you want a super tall stitch - it's totally up to you!) that will act as your first post.  Then yarn over, and reach the hook around the back of the chain as if you're working a post stitch and pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook).  Then you want to repeat this yarning over and pulling up a loop around the back of your chain a few more times (I did a total of three yarn over/loop pull ups around my 3 chains which will give you 7 loops on your hook, as 2 new loops are added for every repetition of yarn over/pull up loop.)  Then I yarned over one more time and pulled up a loop into the same beginning chain that I made my initial chain 3 into.  This is to secure the base of your stitch to the starting chain.  Then using the loop you just pulled up, continue pulling it through all of the loops you've created on your hook with the yarn over/pull ups.  (It may be easier to yarn over one more time and use that loop to pull through all the loops but I think it looks a little cleaner to do it the other way.)

To work more stitches, I chose to skip the next chain and insert my hook into the second chain away and chain 3 with the working yarn.  This way, you have nothing connecting your stitches in between them. You could make a really convenient crochet hook holder with these stitches because you can weave something big back and forth between the bullions very easily.  One additional variable you can throw in is that instead of chaining 3 for a post at the beginning of each stitch, you can work a double or triple crochet if you prefer that to chaining.  If you still want all your stitches to have spaces between, then be sure to wrap your hook fully around your double crochet including the yarn over bar.  This can be a little tricky because you're putting a lot of bulk into a small area and it's hard to see the bar.  The big difference is that the chain 3 will make the stitch a little flatter and the double crochet will make it a little fatter, so you decide if you want it flat or round.  One very last cool thing about this: if you weave your hook back and forth between these stitches after completing a row, it almost acts like a ribbing where half the stitches are pushed forward and half are pushed back and your hook will disappear in the middle.  Cool possibilities!

2. The double bullion/hairpin lace method

One row complete (into single crochet foundation row)

Two rows complete, you can see the right and wrong side

This method is similar to the other one, but you work your steps in a bit of a reverse order.  You start the same way by chaining/foundation chaining to set up, then either chain a few stitches or work a double crochet and work around it like a post.  The difference here is that instead of starting with a yarn over, you'll start by pulling up a loop around the back of your post, then yarning over and pulling through that loop and repeating, so you'll be working one half of the double bullion as you work around the post, and then at the end, you'll complete the second half by drawing through all the loops on your hook.  These have a 'double' look, or when scrunched together, look like double the amount of thinner stitches.  I say this is a hairpin lace method because the front and back do not look exactly alike, and there is a definite right side/wrong side when you use this one.  The back looks like a little hairpin lace or skeleton ribs to me.

Directions: Set up some chains or single crochet foundation row.  I worked into an odd number (but you can see in the photos that my side stitches bulge out a little, so maybe add a few?) and left one chain between each stitch.  To begin each stitch, either chain however many you want tall (I used 3) or double/triple crochet.  Now reach your hook around the back of the chain like a post stitch and pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through that one loop.  Then repeat pulling up a loop around the back and pulling a loop through it, each time adding one more loop to your hook.  When you have reached the bottom of your chain or double crochet, pull up a loop in the chain or stitch below your work to secure the stitch in place, then either pull that loop up and through all the loops or pull another loop through that one and then through all the others.

To work more stitches, skip one chain or stitch and work into every other stitch across your row.

You can see in the photo above that there is a right side/wrong side here, where you can see little bumps in the middle of your stitch in the wrong side.  You might want to work alternating rows of this stitch and single crochet or half double or something in order to keep your right sides facing out.

As far as I know, you can do everything with these two stitches that you could with a regular bullion stitch without the hassle.  Yay!

Crochet Humanoid Figure

Latest project - a little crochet thread figure base for a character.

For every project I make notes and diagrams in my graph paper notebook.

Finished size is about 5 inches tall.  Worked in crochet thread and embroidery thread on steel hooks.  For construction I started with head down into shoulders, then feet up into body and connect to shoulder piece.  Then separate arms attached to shoulders and hands added last.  The hands had to be very small so I had to find a matching embroidery thread color.  I could have done a little mitten.  Might change it up if I make another.  Wrote about three pages of notes to get everything right.  I intend to sew some little cloth clothes for him.

Pattern:

Hooks: 2.75mm and 1.3mm

Thread: Off white crochet thread & matching embroidery thread

Head:

Worked in rows and joined each row

R1: 5 sc in ring

R2: 10

R3: 12

R4: 12

R5: 12

R6: 12

R7: 10

Here I tied off, wove the tail through the 10 stitches and pulled tight.

Shoulders: 

Worked 6 slip stitches into the base of the finished off head - alternately you could decrease from 10 to 6 stitches.. not sure why I did it this way.  Worked 6 sc into the slip stitches, then work the shoulders/chest:

R1: Sc, sc, inc, sc, sc, inc

R2: Sc, sc, inc, inc, sc, sc, inc, inc

R3: Sc, sc, 3 sc in the next stitch - repeat 3 more times

R4: Sc, sc, sc, 3 sc in the next stitch, (sc, sc, sc, sc, 3 sc in the next stitch) repeat 2 more times, end with sc & tie off

Feet, legs, body:

R1: 6 sc in ring and slip to the first stitch (6), then ch and work 2 sc into the first 2 stitches (2), turn ch and work sc into the two you just made (2)

R2: ch 1, turn and in the back loops only, decrease the 2 stitches into 1, work another decrease into the side of the two rows of 2 sc, then work 5 sc around the circular part, work a decrease in the other side of the 2 short rows and slip stitch to the first stitch (8)

R3: Decrease, 4 sc, decrease (6)

R4: Decrease, 4 sc (5)

Then work rows of 5 sc (12 rows including round 4) and there should be 14 rows total in the foot and leg combined.

Tie off the first leg and work a second.

To connect the legs and start the body, you'll position the legs together so the feet are at an angle you like and work some sc in the current leg you just made until you get to the middle of the body (looking at the photos, I worked the left leg first and the right second) to make the gap between the legs, foundation sc a few stitches (mine was 2) and then attach to the second leg by sc around.  Then sc into the back side of the foundation stitches, and back around the first leg until you get to the first stitch you made so the pattern would be like:

In current leg, sc 3, foundation sc 2 stitches and then connect to the first leg and sc around (5), 2 sc in the back of the foundation sc, and 2 into the first leg, sl st to the first sc.  Work the next row, continuing around the current leg, into the foundation chain, around the other leg and back (14 stitches)

Then work around and around in rows of 14 stitches, should be 9-10 total rows in the body.

To connect the body to the shoulders, mark the 4 points where the shoulders will fold to meet the round body (2 opposite sides will attach to the body and 2 will become the arm holes).  For this, the shoulder piece will have 4 sides of 7 stitches each (not exactly on the corners) and those corners will meet on the two sides of the round body piece.  I added a little stuffing and sewed together with sewing thread & needle.

Arms:

R1: Sc 5 into a ring, slip to first stitch

R2: Work 5 sc in the back loops only (this end is the wrist so depending on what kind of hand you will make, you may want to work in both loops and keep the end open

Work about 8 rows of 5 sc and in the last full row, increase to 6 stitches, put the increase anywhere.

Last row: to make an angled shoulder work a short row of 2 sc and 1 slip stitch

Push a little more stuffing into the arm holes and sew on arms

Fingers and Thumbs:

For this I switched to embroidery thread and smaller hook and worked very small I cords.  These are very fidgety and leave a lot of ends to sew in.

For the fingers:

R1: Ch 3 and pull up a loop through chains 1 and 2 (3 loops on the hook)

R2: Pop off the first two loops and chain 1 through the remaining loop.  Put loop 2 back on the hook and chain 1, put loop 1 back on the hook and chain 1.

R3: Repeat row 2

R4: Pop off first two loops and chain 1 through the remaining loop.  Put the 2nd loop back on the hook and pull through the first, pull loop 1 through as well, tie off

For the thumb, work the same pattern but skip round 3 to make it shorter.

To attach the fingers and thumb, I used a different method on each hand.  First method is just sewing on individual fingers onto the end of the arm and the second is to crochet around all 4 fingers and then attach that to the arm.

Paper Flip Flops

Summer is finally on it's way out.  I'm saying goodbye with some tiny little flip flops.  I used paper for the base and ribbon for the thong but you could use just about anything.  Craft foam and cloth would be super cute.  The pink flowers are origami irises.

Here's a little diagram of how to put them together.  It's pretty easy, I just like making little diagrams.

Welcome to Mos Eisley

If I ever move to Mos Eisley I think I would make this and hang it on my wall.  It's important to be proud of your home.

Just the text pattern:

Just the city pattern - not sure how I would do this part:

Bonus geek alphabet:

Crochet Octopus

This is a very simple pattern.  There's no shortage of similar patterns out there for free, but this is one of the first patterns I actually made myself a few years ago.  I think a lot of people make an octopus pattern early on in their pattern creations because single crocheting into a chain creates a very curly shape and you think of hair or octopus tentacles.

This creature is made using cotton yarn and as small a hook as you are comfortable using so that there are not gaps between stitches.  I used a 4mm hook and Sugar N Cream Cotton yarn. I worked this in continuous rounds, marking the beginning of each row with stitch marker.  The head contains a little poly-fil stuffing.  Add the stuffing whenever you feel comfortable.

The Pattern:

Top of the head down to base of head:
R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook (or magic loop) [6]
R2: 2 sc in each sc [12]
R3: Sc, inc around [18]
R4: Sc around [18]
R5: Sc around [18]
R6: Sc around [18]
R7: Sc, dec around [12] (work decreases in the front loops only to reduce gaps)
R8: Sc around [12]
R9: Sc, dec around, slip to first stitch in row [8] (final row should be the number of tentacles)

Tentacles:

Begin in any stitch - In the back loop only (the outside edge of the bowl shaped head - the front loop will be used to close the hole in the head), sc, ch 20 (or any number you like). Slip into the first two stitches of the chain and sc into 2 loops of each chain back to the body (this creates the curl in the tentacles).  Slip into the side of the sc at the beginning of the chain.  Repeat for the seven remaining tentacles.

After completing the final tentacle, slip to the side of the first tentacle's sc.  Ch 1, sc in each front loop of the stitches that you worked in the back of previously (about 6 is fine if it gets tight), slip to first sc, cut yarn and whip through each stitch, pull tight and weave in.

Eyes: 

I used a two round little cup shapes to hold in some large googly eyes, but any other method would work if they need to be safe for a child.

For the cups: 

R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in first ch (or magic loop)

R2: In the back loop only, sc in each stitch (add or subtract a stitch to fit googly eye), place googly eye, sew to head.

You'll need to adjust this if you're using a different size.  My oval eyes were 9 sc, and large round eyes were 7 sc.

Embellishments:

A few sequins or beads sewn onto the tentacles will resemble their suckers.  Solid color or color changing yarn will give you different cool results.

Mr. Octopus is now on ravelry!  Yay!