Continuous Catnip Mouse

Hook and Yarn:

Use any yarn and hook combination that gives you tight amigurumi tension. Check the recommended hook size provided on the yarn label and choose a hook size that is at least 1-2 sizes smaller.

(In the example, I have used a 4mm hook and medium/worsted weight/category 4 yarn, Lily Sugar’n Cream in Warm Brown)

Other materials:

Small amount of polyester fiber fill or other material

Catnip if desired

Yarn needle

At least 3 Stitch markers

Cat

Pattern is worked continuously from tail to nose without any parts to sew on.   Mark the first stitch of every round. For single crochets that look like X’s, insert hook into loop and instead of yarning over, hook over yarn and pull though.  See example of gray mouse at the very end.

Mouse Tail: Leave a yarn tail of about 6 inches and chain 15 (more or less chains for longer or shorter tail) Slip stitch back in the back bump of each chain (15 or more or less as desired)

15 chains and long tail

Slip stitch in the back bumps of each chain

Slip stitches complete

R1: Use the yarn tail to create a magic loop, and into the loop work 6 single crochets using working yarn.  Mark the first single crochet with stitch marker.  Pull yarn tail tight, do not join.

Create magic loop with yarn tail

Make 6 sc in loop, marking the first stitch

6 sc created in the loop, ready for round two

R2: Pull mouse tail down in front of 6sc ring.  Remove stitch marker and sc2 in that stitch.  Replace marker into the first stitch of current round (and all following rounds to keep your place).  Continue placing 2 sc in each sc around (12)

First 2 stitches made and marked

Round 2 complete

R3: Sc in first stitch, 2sc in second stitch, repeat around (18)

Round 3 complete

R4-9: Sc in each stitch around (18) Do more rows for a long mouse. Do less rows for a short mouse.

Rounds 4-9 complete

R10: Decrease round.  [Sc 4, decrease] around. (15)  For a less noticeable decrease, pull up loops in the front loops only of the 2 stitches in which you are working your decrease.

Add some stuffing.  If using catnip, layer small amounts of stuffing and sprinkle loose catnip between layers.

R11: Ears round.  Look at the placement of the mouse’s tail and choose where you want your ears.  Place 2 stitch markers 3 stitches apart (in the back loop of the stitch only) to mark where the ears will go. Sc around until you reach your first marker.  Work 6 double crochets into the front loop only of the first marked ear stitch.  Sc in the next 3 stitches. Work 6 double crochets into the front loop only of the second marked ear stitch. Sc around back to the last stitch.  Mark as many additional stitches in this round as you think you will need to help you in the next round.

Round 11 complete, ears created and back loops marked for next round

R12: Sc around (15) The stitches you should use for the 15 stitches will be the beginning single crochets working up to the ear stitch, the back loop of both ear stitches, the 3 single crochets between ear stitches, and the remaining stitches at the end of the round.  To work around the ears, pull them down and push them together while working around them.

R13: Decrease round.  [Sc 3, decrease] around. (12) Stuff as you go to make sure the hole doesn’t become too small.

R14: Decrease round. [Sc 2, decrease] (9)

R15: Decrease round. [Sc, decrease] (6)

R16: Decrease round. [Sc, decrease] (4)

Cut about 8” tail, thread yarn needle.  Whip stitch around each 4 stitches, pull gently to close.  Tie knot and bury tail.

Mouse complete

Two styles of single crochet, yarn over and hook over to create X stitches in gray mouse

Mr. Meeseeks Crochet Amigurumi

Hi I'm Mr. Meeseeks look at me!  Make a ton of me to help Justin Roiland and Dan Harmon get season 3 out by July 30th!  Just be careful - we're not gods, Jeerrrrrrrry.

For this adorable little guy we're going to use Paton's Grace in Aquifer (blue/teal colored) with a 2.75mm hook and size 10 crochet thread in Pumpkin (orange) with a 1.65mm hook for the hair.  You will also need to make details for the face, pipe cleaners for stability in the limbs and polyfil stuffing for the body and head.  I have used small black safety eyes and red felt for the eyes and mouth and white nail polish for the details on the eyes and teeth.  I have also used green and white felt and sewing thread to make a little golf vest thing and beret with a white worsted acrylic yarn for the pompom.  Every Meeseeks has a different face and expression so make them however you feel they should be and put them in whatever outfits you like.

If you don't have the recommended size yarn and hooks or don't feel comfortable working in that scale, you can use any size yarn you want.  You just need to make sure the hook you use is very snug with the yarn, as with any amigurumi.  For example if you want to use worsted weight yarn which is most common, don't use the recommended size hook on the yarn package.  Use a hook that is 2-3 whole hook sizes smaller.  It should be the smallest hook size you can comfortably use without splitting the yarn and still being able to hook it properly to pull stitches through.  Please comment below if you need help or have questions!

Pattern:  Leave long tail on each separate piece for sewing together.

Feet/legs: Make 2 (Start at the toe of the foot and work up to the ankle, joining rounds as you go.  Then work up the leg in a spiral.  Keep stitches loose as you work up the leg or it will be very hard to work into them.)

1. 4sc in an adjustable ring.  Join to first stitch with slip stitch, chain 1. [4]
2. (1sc, inc) 2x.  Join to first stitch with slip stitch, chain 1. [6]
3. (1sc, inc) 3x.  Join to first stitch with slip stitch, chain 1. [9]
4. Sc around.  Join to first stitch with slip stitch, chain 1. [9]
5. In this round we will work back and forth and then continue around in decreases to make the heel of the foot: (3sc, turn, chain 1) 3x.
   Then make 4 decreases, continuing in the round:
   1 (pull up one loop in the side of the heel flap and one loop from the first stitch available in round 4)
   2 & 3 (decrease across the next 4 stitches)
   4 (pulling up one loop in the next stitch and one loop in the side of the heel flap.
   Join to first stitch with slip stitch, chain 1. [7]
6. Sc 2, dec, sc 1, dec [5]
7.  Rows 7+, work in a continuous spiral until the leg measures about 2 inches (about 11 rows) [5]

Make 2 feet.  Then insert hook down the tube of the leg and foot to make room for the pipe cleaner.  Bend the end of the pipe cleaner over so it inserts cleanly and insert down into the leg until the folded tip reaches end of foot.  Leave a small amount of pipe cleaner sticking out and fold over the tip so it is easier to insert into the body.

Body:  (Starting at the bottom of the belly and working up.  Work in a continuous spiral.)

1. 6 sc in an adjustable ring. Do not join rounds, continue working the next round directly into first stitch. [6]
2. 2 sc in each stitch around. [12]
3. Sc, inc around [18]
4. Sc 2, inc around [24]
5. Sc in each stitch around [24]
6. Sc in each stitch around [24]
7. Sc in each stitch around [24]
8. Sc in each stitch around [24]
9. Sc 4, dec around [20]
10. Sc 8, dec around [18]
11. Sc in each stitch around [18]
12. Sc 7, dec around [16]
13. Sc in each stitch around [16]
14. Sc 6, dec around [14]
15. Sc in each stitch around [14]
16. Sc in each stitch around [14]
17. Sc in each stitch around [14]
18. Sc 5, dec around.  Slip to first stitch and chain 1, pull tight. [12]

Hands/Arms: Make 2 (Starting at the tip of the fingers joining rows on the hand and working up the arm in a continuous spiral.  Keep stitches loose as you work up the leg or it will be very hard to work into them.)

1. 4sc in an adjustable ring.  Join to first stitch with slip stitch, chain 1. [4]
2. (1sc, inc) 2x.  Join to first stitch with slip stitch, chain 1. [6]
3. (1sc, inc) 3x.  Join to first stitch with slip stitch, chain 1. [9]
4. Sc around.  Join to first stitch with slip stitch, chain 1. [9]
5. (Sc, dec) 3x.  Join to first stitch with slip stitch, chain 1. [6]
6. Sc, sc, dec, sc, sc[5]
7. Rows 7 + work in a continuous spiral (about 11 rows or until the arm is as long as you like) [5]

Make 2 arms.  Then insert hook down the tube of the arm and hand to make room for the pipe cleaner.  Bend the end of the pipe cleaner over so it inserts cleanly and insert down into the arm until the folded tip reaches tip of the hand.  Leave a small amount of pipe cleaner sticking out and fold over the tip so it is easier to insert into the body.

Head version 1 - Round Head: (Example in the photo of the golf Meeseeks.  Starting at the crown of the head and working down to the neck.  If using safety eyes, make sure you place them before the opening gets too small.)

1. 6 sc in an adjustable ring. Do not join rounds, continue working the next round directly into first stitch. [6]
2. 2 sc in each stitch around. [12]
3. Sc, inc around [18]
4. Sc 2, inc around [24]
5. Sc 3, inc around [30]
6. Sc in each stitch around [30]
7. Sc in each stitch around [30]
8. Sc in each stitch around [30]
9. Sc in each stitch around [30]
10. Sc in each stitch around [30]
11. Sc in each stitch around [30]
12. Sc 3, dec around [24]
13. Sc in each stitch around [24]
14. Sc 2, dec around [18]
15. Sc in each stitch around [18]
16. Sc, dec around. Slip to first stitch and chain 1, pull tight. [12]

Head version 2 - Thin Head: (Example in the Meeseeks with orange hair.  Starting at the crown of the head and working down to the neck.  If using safety eyes, make sure you place them before the opening gets too small.)

1. 6 sc in an adjustable ring. Do not join rounds, continue working the next round directly into first stitch. [6]
2. 2 sc in each stitch around. [12]
3. Sc, inc around [18]
4. Sc 2, inc around [24]
5. Sc 3, inc around [30]
6. Sc in each stitch around [30]
7. Sc in each stitch around [30]
8. Sc in each stitch around [30]
9. Sc in each stitch around [30]
10. Sc 4, dec around [25]
11. Sc in each stitch around [25]
12. Sc 3, dec around [20]
13. Sc in each stitch around [20]
14. Sc 3, dec around [15]
15. Sc in each stitch around [15]
16. Sc 3, dec around.  Slip to first stitch and chain 1, pull tight. [12]

Orange Hair:

Sc 6 in an adjustable ring and slip stitch to the first stitch.  You will now work into the front loops only.  In each front loop, slip stitch to the loop, then chain a few (the number is up to you and can be different for each piece of hair) and then slip stitch back down the chains.  Work in this manner until you have 6 pieces of hair, one for each of the 6 front loops you've worked into.  Then use the back loops you did not work into to sew the piece to the top of the head.

Assembly:

First, stuff polyfil stuffing into the body and head.

Then, attach the head to the body:  Where the last stitch of each round was joined in both the head and body there should be an irregular bump that should line up in the back of the doll once the head is flipped right side up.  Line these up and use the tails of each piece to sew them together.

Attach arms and legs: push your hook or a chopstick into the body where you want the arms and legs to be attached so there is a hole for the pipe cleaner to enter.  Insert the arms and legs with the pipe cleaners sticking into the body.  Use the tails to sew limbs to the body.

Attach the hair and any details to the face and you are done!

Fall Leaf Paper Lantern

This picture wouldn't focus because it was dark and it turned out all artsy.

A Saturday in the middle of October is perfect for making paper lanterns.  The days are getting darker and colder and I need some candles in my life.

This is a fairly simple project to make and you can customize it for any holiday or occasion.

I started with a piece of 12 x 12 paper that came in a big book from Michael's and cut it in half so I had 2 pieces of 6 x 12.  It's not truly 12 x 12 so there's an extra little lip to help glue the sides together.

It's a bit hard to see but the above photo is divided into 4 sections that are 3 inches wide plus a tiny lip on one side.  I used a bone folder to score the paper so it would fold easily.

Trace a leaf shape on each of the 4 big panels.  You could put anything on there, I just happen to have some leaf templates from the wreath I'm making.

Carefully cut out the leaf shapes with a very sharp exacto blade or craft knife.  I use a piece of cardboard underneath from an Amazon box.  I cut out the leaf in one piece so I have the leaf shapes to put on the table for decoration.

Here are all the leaves cut out and the right side of the paper up.

Next I cut out a rough rectangle of white tissue paper big enough to fit over the entire card stock.

Trim down the tissue paper to size and attach it to the back side of the paper.  I like to use this tape adhesive so the papers don't wrinkle and there is no mess.  It makes a huge difference in projects like this.  Once the tissue paper is attached, you can connect up the sides of the box using the thin tab on the side.

All done.  I did not put a bottom on the box so that it's easier to use with a candle.  Feeling cozy and ready for cooler weather.

Fall Leaf Written Pattern & Stitch Diagram Update

Here's my finished example worked from this pattern and then wet blocked.

Previous post: http://theunknownorchard.blogspot.com/2015/09/fall-leaf-pattern.html

Bit of an update.  This seems to be pretty popular so I've revisited the pattern and made some changes as well as actually writing a row by row pattern.  This is quite an advanced pattern and not easy to write so leave me a comment below if you need some clarification or find a mistake.  I think the final result has come out pretty nice after some blocking.

Notes:

• When working on a right side row into the top of a double crochet from the previous round, I like to work into the back loops only to make the front loops pop out and create a line in the work.  When working on a wrong side row, work into the front loops only.
• You may need more or less chains to form the initial ring before you start.  There is not gauge for this, so find what works for you.  I found 12 chains worked well to place 24 double crochets into the ring.
• As you go, you will work less and less of the whole round as this is what causes the leaves to be different sizes.  For the sides of the leaves to taper down to a point, you'll need to omit some double crochets on the edges, which I've tried to explain in the pattern.  For me, I used the basic rule of leaving a gap of 3 double crochets unworked on the edges and one double crochet at the very edge.  You may find you like more or less to be unworked depending on the look you're going for.
• Previously I chose to finish the right half of the leaf as I went and the left with a final row of single crochet.  In this version, there will be a final row that works around the entire leaf so that the result is even all the way around.  The final row is easy to work, but hard to follow in a written pattern because it's so repetitive.  Just remember that you work a single crochet into the top of all the double crochets.  When you come to a chain space, you'll work (2 sc, picot, 2 sc) and when working into the standing stitches, you'll work 2 single crochet around each one as if you're working around a chain.  The diagram should help to explain all this.
• I've also changed the number of chains in the center of leaves from 2 to 3.  I like it a bit more roomy to work into.
• I use standing double crochet stitches frequently for the first stitch in a row.  You can do chain 3 if you like.  It should not make too much of a difference as you will cover a lot of them up later.  The diagram uses 3 chains to make it easy to see what you're doing and where the rows join.

Updated stitch diagram.

Chain 12 and join into a ring.
[Right side] rows: work into back loops only and chain spaces
[Wrong side] rows: work into front loops only and chain spaces

1. [Right side] Make a DC standing stitch: insert hook into the ring to yarn over. DC 23 more into the ring and join to the top of the first standing stitch (24)
2. [RS] Chain 1 and sc in same stitch. (Chain 3 and skip 1 stitch.  Sc in the back loop of the next DC.) Repeat around, slip into first sc.
3. [RS] Slip into the next chain space and make a standing DC and another DC into the space. Chain 3 and make 2 more DC in the same space. (2 DC in next chain space, chain 3, 2 more DC in same space) Repeat around.  Slip to the top of the first standing stitch.
4. [RS] Slip into the next chain space and make a standing DC and another 2 DC into the space.  Chain 3 and make 3 more DC in the same space.  (3 DC in the next chain space, chain 3, 3 more DC in the same space) Repeat around (12 total leaves). Slip to the top of the first standing stitch.
5. [RS] Make a standing DC in the top of the previous one from round 4.  Into the next chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC. Work 1 DC in the back loop of the next DC from previous round. (Skip 4 stitches and work into the back loop of the 5th stitch 1 DC.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 1 more DC into the back loop of the next DC from previous round) Repeat 7 more times for a total of 9 clusters, leaving three unworked where the smaller leaves and stem will be.  In the last repetition, place the last DC over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
6. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make a standing stitch (you are no longer working in the round).  Skip to the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Then work  DC into the front loop of the next two stitches.  (Skip 4 stitches and work into the front loops of the 5th and 6th stitches, placing 1 DC into each.  In the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work a DC in the front loop of each of the next two stitches.)  Repeat 7 more times for 9 total leaves.  In the last repetition, omit 2 DC from the edge (3 in the chain space, and 1 more into the standing stitch from the previous round for straight edge).
7. [Right Side] Chain 1 and turn.   Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch.  Sc 2.  Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  5 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC in the first stitch, then skip 2 stitches and place 1 DC BLO in the last stitch before the chain space.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC into the next 3 stitches BLO. (Skip 4 stitches and work into the back loop of the 5th, 6th, and 7th stitch 1 DC each.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 3 more DC into the back loops of the next 3 stitches.)  Repeat 5 more times.  In the last repetition, work the chain space, then place only 1 DC next to it and place the last DC over to the left (skip 3 stitches) between clusters to create a straight edge.
8. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 1 DC into the next stitch FLO. Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 4 DC in the front loops in the next 4 stitches.  (Skip 4 stitches and work into the back loop of the 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8ths stitch 1 DC each.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 4 more DC into the back loops of the next 4 stitches.)  Repeat 5 more times for 7 total leaves.  In the last repetition, place 1 DC after the chain space and the last DC over to the left between clusters (skip 3 stitches) to create a straight edge.
9. [Right Side] Chain 1 and turn.  Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch.  Sc 3.  Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  7 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC BLO, then skip 3 stitches and work 3 BLO DCs.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC BLO into the next 5 stitches. (Skip 4 stitches and work 5 DC into the back loop of the 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, and 9th stitch (1 DC in each).  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 5 more DC into the back loops of the next 5 stitches.)  Repeat 3 more times for a total of 5.  In the last repetition, place 3 DC after the last chain space, skip 3 and place 1 more over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
10. [Wrong Side]  Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 3 DC FLO.  Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 6 DC in the front loops in the next 6 stitches.  (Skip 4 stitches and work into the front loop of the 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th stitch 1 DC each.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 6 more DC into the back loops of the next 6 stitches.)  Repeat 3 more times.  In the last repetition, place only 5 DC and one last DC over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
11. [Right Side] Chain 1 and turn. Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch. Sc 5. Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  9 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC BLO, then skip 3 stitches and work 5 BLO DCs.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC BLO into the next 7 stitches. (Skip 4 stitches and work 7 DC into the back loop of the next 7 stitches (1 DC in each).  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 7 more DC into the back loops of the next 7 stitches.)  Repeat 1 more time.  In the last repetition, place 8 DC after the last chain space, skip 3 and place 1 more over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
12. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 5 DC FLO. Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 8 DC in the front loops in the next 8 stitches.(Skip 4 stitches and work into the front loop of the next 8 stitches (1 DC each). Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC. Work 8 more DC into the back loops of the next 8 stitches.)Repeat 1 more time.In the last repetition, place only 5 DC and one last DC over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
13. [Right Side]  Chain 1 and turn.  Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch.  Sc 7.  Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  11 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC BLO, then skip 3 stitches and work 7 BLO DCs.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC BLO into the next 7 stitches, skip 3 and place 1 more DC.
14. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 7 DC FLO. Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 7 more FLO DC, skip 3 stitches and place a last DC.
15. (This will get a bit wordy, so use your best judgement following this pattern and the diagram: In the top of double crochets, work a single crochet.  In chain spaces, work 2 sc, picot, 2 sc.  Down the side of standing stitches and double crochets, place 2 sc in each.  On the right half of the leaf, you'll only want to place 3.)  Chain 1 and turn. Skip 1 stitch and sc 9.  In the chain space, sc 2, picot, sc 2.  SC 10 down the other side. Sc 4 down the side of the 2 standing stitches (2 each around the DCs like working into a chain space).  Sc 11 up the next side, sc 2, picot, sc 2 in the chain space.  8 sc down the side.  4 sc down the side of the 2 standing stitches. Sc 9 up the next side, work chains space, sc 6.  4 sc down the side of the 2 standing stitches.  Sc 7, work the next chain space.  Sc 4 and work 4 down the side of the 2 standing stitches.  Sc 5, work the chain space. Sc 3, work 4 into the 2 standing stitches.  Sc 3, work the chain space, sc 3.  Sc 3, 2 sc in the chain space, chain X, then slip back X-1.  2 more sc in the chains space.  Sc 6, work chain space.  Sc 3, sc 4 up the 2 standing stitches.  3 sc, chain space, 5 sc.  3 sc up the standing stitches. 4 sc, chain space, 7sc.  3 up the standing stitches.  6 sc, work the chain space, 9 sc,  3 sc up the standing stitches.  8 sc, work the chain space, 10 sc. 3 up the standing stitches.  Finish with an invisible join.

P.S. A special hello to you if you came from Moogly or PetalstoPicots.  I love seeing everybody's projects there!

Guns Are'nt Fun

Did a little cross stitch for our wall from our favorite show, Rick and Morty.

Here's the pattern if you want to play along:

Handle your shit, Fabious, please.

One of my favorite things to do when I'm feeling down is to rewatch funny movies.  One of our favorites is Your Highness.  I've stitched a little tribute to Danny McBride and James Franco.

It's my first real finished cross stitch piece and I'm pleased with it, although it's not perfect.  I finally bought a frame for it last night.  It probably needs to be ironed a bit more but I wanted to get it up on the wall.

I designed the font myself based on the opening credits from the movie and it took a bit of work to get it right.  I thought about including a little something from the scene but I'm not too confident in my stitching skills just yet.

My pattern I worked from with the little drawing included:

Moroccan Market Tote (free pattern from Moogly!)

I finally remembered to take some pictures of this bag that I finished a few weeks ago.  Not at all too soon, either, as I'm giving it as a timely gift for my boss's Summer birthday.

The pattern comes from mooglyblog: http://www.mooglyblog.com/moroccan-market-tote/ and I won (yes me I won something!) free yarn from her in this contest to make it: http://www.mooglyblog.com/lion-brand-yarn-moroccan-market-tote-giveaway/

The pattern is simple enough once you get the hang of it and it's all repeats, but complicated enough to give you some visual interest in the finished bag.  I chose to add some stripes around the top for an extra detail.  

The yarn is Lion Brand's 24/7 Cotton.  It's a bit of a strange looking yarn because of the way it's plied that makes it look like a little rope, but it was wonderful to work with.  The colors I chose are Ecru (the tan), Magenta (the dark pink), and Pink (the light pink).  (I also got some skeins of the jade, aqua, and grass because I really can't resist those colors so now I have more yarn for a different project!!)  This yarn was really fun to work with and has a perfect combination of sturdiness that I expect from cotton while also being soft and squishy.  I think it's partly how it's plied and spun and partly that it's a mercerized cotton, more like crochet thread than cotton yarn in feel and how it works up.  It is called a worsted weight yarn but it seemed on the thin side of worsted and I think I ended up using a smaller crochet hook than the packaging calls for to make the stitches more dense.

Posted my little pattern on ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/UnknownOrchard/moroccan-market-tote

Crochet Peacock Feather Earrings Design

This has been on my idea list for a long long time.  I'm trying to work through the list instead of just adding new ideas to it.  It's meant to be a revolving door, not a bottomless pit.

So the basic design for this will use the pattern for a simple crocheted circle, but I'll switch out stitch types to shape it and keep the stitch count for each row the same.  I may add some spike stitches for the light blue row and some longer stitches for the top of the last row to join it into the feather top.  I want to add some of the long dangly feather parts later and I'm thinking of doing them as a strip of broomstick lace like I use for doll hair sometimes.

I plan on using embroidery floss (not sure on the strand count yet) to make it small and intricate.  I may add a piece of wire partway through to add stability but I'll see how that goes.

Considering working in the back loops only to make a more pronounced color change.

I want to alternate each row where the increases are to make it more circular and less angular.

Draft Diagram:

Scrap yarn prototype:

Don't think I followed through on row three with my changes to include some triple crochets, and I'm not sure if the final round is better off with hdc or dc at the widest part.

Written pattern: (possible BLOs throughout for color changes)

1. 12 DC in ring [dark blue]
2. (HDC 2 in next)x2, (DC 2 in next)x8, (HDC 2 in next)x2 [darkblue]
3. Sc 1, sc 2 in next, (HDC 1, 2 in next)x3, DC 1, DC 2 in next, (TRC 1, 2 in next)x2, DC 1, DC 2 in next, (HDC 1, 2 in next)x3, Sc 1, sc 2 in next [light blue] (consider spike stitches at beginning and end of round)
4. (Sc 2 in next, sc 2)x2, (HDC 2 in next, HDC 2)x2, DC 2 in next, DC 2, (TRC 2 in next, TRC 2)x2, DC 2 in next, DC 2, (HDC 2 in next, HDC 2)x2, (Sc 2 in next, sc 2)x2 [gold or yellow]
5. (Sc 3, sc 2 in next)x3, (HDC 3, HDC 2 in next)x6, (Sc 3, sc 2 in next)x3 [green] (consider longer stitches at beginning and end of round)
6. Make some basic broomstick lace in green and add around - attach findings for earrings.

Now I just need to actually find some time and actually make them!

Actually working on something the next day and my mind hasn't wondered off to other projects.  Strange.

Thoughts...

• I like the colors.  They are I think all DMC.  796, 132A, 581, and 90A.  I have a darker green in 580 that I might use for the tassles.
• Alternating increases and BLO work has giving it a nice detail.  I also used a invisible color change/join.  I like that except for the first 2 rows, all the colors are done in one row each but I could change that.
• I used a size 1.10mm hook, mostly because I couldn't put my hand on the 1mm I wanted and the .85 was too small.  I think a slightly smaller hook will make it more compact and professional looking.
• Not sure on the final shape... the triple stitches don't hold their shape super well.  Maybe some blocking a smaller hook will change that.  I think the gold row could use some more longer stitches.

New version with 4 strands held together:

Thoughts:

• This is what I get for being so picky - now maybe it's too big - try just 3 strands held together?
• Spike stitches should go all the way down to the center and maybe add 1 or 2 more?
• Thing at the top didn't work, need more building up in surrounding stitches - also should I add a point at the bottom?
• Still using 1.10mm hook and it works much better with more thread.

First and second version together:

Little Doomguy Doll

Life's tough out there, you know?  Hell portals.. crazy scientists... levers opening up secret doors to ancient graphics... who knows what you're going to find.  That's why it's important to have a friend to help you through it all.

And just between you and me, it helps a lot if your friend has a chainsaw.

Ruuummmm rumm rummmmmm!

I had a tough time deciding when this one was 'finished'.  So many details...  I think it came out alright though.  He stands up on his own, even while holding the chainsaw.  I'm pretty impressed with him.  Good job, fella.  I like to imagine what Toy Story would be like if Andy got this instead of Woody.

Kuchi Kopi

My own little Kuchi Kopi from Bob's Burgers!  Once again this is a case of not being able to find an existing pattern for something I want to make so I made it a quick little weekend project of it.

Here's a little pattern so you can make one too! (Let me know if you find any mistakes.)

Yarns used:

• for the body: Sugar 'n Cream Hot Green (hook size F/5 3.75mm)
• for the eyes: Patons Grace Snow (steel hook #1 2.75mm)
• for the bow tie: Patons Grace Aquifer (steel hook #1 2.75mm)

You'll also need 2 black seed beads for the eyes and some stuffing.  I used poly-fil.

The body is worked from the bottom up and the head is worked from the top down and the two pieces are seamed in the middle.  (Leave a long tail on either the head or body for sewing.)  The seam is then hidden by the string for the bow tie.

Pattern:

Body: (Work by joining rows for the flat bottom and then in continuous rounds for the rest.)

1. 6 sc in magic ring. Slip to first sc. (6)
2. Chain 1, 2 sc in each stitch. Slip to first sc. (12)
3. Chain 1.  Sc, inc around.  Slip to first sc. (18)
4. Chain 1, 2 sc, inc around. Slip to first sc. (24)
5. Chain 1, sc in each stitch around in the back loop only. Don't slip to the first stitch, from here you will work continuously around. (24)
6. Sc 5, inc around (28)
7. Sc 6, inc around (32)
8. Sc 7, inc around (36)
9. Sc around (36)
10. Sc around (36)
11. Sc 4, decrease around (30)
12. Sc 3, decrease around (24)
13. Sc around.  Slip to the first sc.  There will be a bumpy edge that you will match up with the bump in the head. (24)
    

Head: (Work in continuous rounds.)

1. 6 sc in magic ring. (6)
2. Inc around (12)
3. Sc, inc around (18)
4. 2 sc, inc around (24)
5. 3 sc, inc around (30)
6. Sc around (30)
7. Sc around (30)
8. Sc around (30)
9. Sc around (30)
10. Sc around (30)
11. Sc 3, decrease around (24)
12. Sc around (24)

Stuff the body and head and use the tails to sew the two together.  They should meet nicely where the bumps line up.  Sew about 3/4 the way around and stuff more stuffing in to get the correct amount.

Ears: (Make two)

1. 4 sc in magic ring. Slip to first sc. (4)
2. Chain 1, 2 sc in each stitch.  Slip to first sc. (8)
3. Chain 1, sc around.  Slip to first sc. (8)

Leave a long tail and sew the pieces together at the bottom so they have a flat edge to attach to the head. (Don't stuff.)

Arms: (Make two)

1. 4 sc in magic ring (4)
2. Inc around (8)
3. Sc around (8)
4. Sc around (8)
5. 2 sc, dec around (6)
6. Sc around (6)

Leave a long tail and sew the pieces together at the top so they have a flat edge to attach to the body, just below the bow tie.  (Don't stuff.)  I also sewed the arms so they lie flat to the body.

Eyes: (Make two, working in a continuous spiral)

1. 6sc in magic ring (6)
2. Inc around (12)
3. Sc, inc around, slip to first sc. (18)

With sewing thread, attach a black seed bead to the center of the eye.

Bow tie: (Make a long chain that spans the neck of the doll, then slip into each stitch back to make the string.  Then make and attach the bow tie.)

1. Chain 2, sc in the first chain. (1)
2. Chain 1 and turn. 2 sc in the sc from row 1. (2)
3. Chain 1 and turn. 2 sc in the first, 1 sc in the next. (3)
4. Chain 1 and turn. 2 sc in the first, sc in the next 2 (4)
5. Chain 1 and turn. Sc across. (4)
6. Chain 1 and turn. Dec the first two stitches, sc in the next 2 (3)
7. Chain 1 and turn. Dec the first two stitches, sc in the next (2)
8. Chain 1 and turn. Dec the two stitches. (1)
9. Chain 1 and turn. Sc 1 (1)
10. - 16. Repeat rows 2 thru 8.

Use the starting tail and the end tail to tie the ends together.  Wrap the ends of the tail around the middle in the thin part to form the bow tie and knot twice on the back side.  Sew the bow tie to the string and attach the string to the doll.

Finishing touch: I like to add a row of slip stitches to the bottom of the doll on the loops that stick out from working in the back loops only.  This acts as a stand so it doesn't tip over as easily.