Handle your shit, Fabious, please.

One of my favorite things to do when I'm feeling down is to rewatch funny movies.  One of our favorites is Your Highness.  I've stitched a little tribute to Danny McBride and James Franco.

It's my first real finished cross stitch piece and I'm pleased with it, although it's not perfect.  I finally bought a frame for it last night.  It probably needs to be ironed a bit more but I wanted to get it up on the wall.

I designed the font myself based on the opening credits from the movie and it took a bit of work to get it right.  I thought about including a little something from the scene but I'm not too confident in my stitching skills just yet.

My pattern I worked from with the little drawing included:

Crochet Peacock Feather Earrings Design

This has been on my idea list for a long long time.  I'm trying to work through the list instead of just adding new ideas to it.  It's meant to be a revolving door, not a bottomless pit.

So the basic design for this will use the pattern for a simple crocheted circle, but I'll switch out stitch types to shape it and keep the stitch count for each row the same.  I may add some spike stitches for the light blue row and some longer stitches for the top of the last row to join it into the feather top.  I want to add some of the long dangly feather parts later and I'm thinking of doing them as a strip of broomstick lace like I use for doll hair sometimes.

I plan on using embroidery floss (not sure on the strand count yet) to make it small and intricate.  I may add a piece of wire partway through to add stability but I'll see how that goes.

Considering working in the back loops only to make a more pronounced color change.

I want to alternate each row where the increases are to make it more circular and less angular.

Draft Diagram:

Scrap yarn prototype:

Don't think I followed through on row three with my changes to include some triple crochets, and I'm not sure if the final round is better off with hdc or dc at the widest part.

Written pattern: (possible BLOs throughout for color changes)

1. 12 DC in ring [dark blue]
2. (HDC 2 in next)x2, (DC 2 in next)x8, (HDC 2 in next)x2 [darkblue]
3. Sc 1, sc 2 in next, (HDC 1, 2 in next)x3, DC 1, DC 2 in next, (TRC 1, 2 in next)x2, DC 1, DC 2 in next, (HDC 1, 2 in next)x3, Sc 1, sc 2 in next [light blue] (consider spike stitches at beginning and end of round)
4. (Sc 2 in next, sc 2)x2, (HDC 2 in next, HDC 2)x2, DC 2 in next, DC 2, (TRC 2 in next, TRC 2)x2, DC 2 in next, DC 2, (HDC 2 in next, HDC 2)x2, (Sc 2 in next, sc 2)x2 [gold or yellow]
5. (Sc 3, sc 2 in next)x3, (HDC 3, HDC 2 in next)x6, (Sc 3, sc 2 in next)x3 [green] (consider longer stitches at beginning and end of round)
6. Make some basic broomstick lace in green and add around - attach findings for earrings.

Now I just need to actually find some time and actually make them!

Actually working on something the next day and my mind hasn't wondered off to other projects.  Strange.

Thoughts...

• I like the colors.  They are I think all DMC.  796, 132A, 581, and 90A.  I have a darker green in 580 that I might use for the tassles.
• Alternating increases and BLO work has giving it a nice detail.  I also used a invisible color change/join.  I like that except for the first 2 rows, all the colors are done in one row each but I could change that.
• I used a size 1.10mm hook, mostly because I couldn't put my hand on the 1mm I wanted and the .85 was too small.  I think a slightly smaller hook will make it more compact and professional looking.
• Not sure on the final shape... the triple stitches don't hold their shape super well.  Maybe some blocking a smaller hook will change that.  I think the gold row could use some more longer stitches.

New version with 4 strands held together:

Thoughts:

• This is what I get for being so picky - now maybe it's too big - try just 3 strands held together?
• Spike stitches should go all the way down to the center and maybe add 1 or 2 more?
• Thing at the top didn't work, need more building up in surrounding stitches - also should I add a point at the bottom?
• Still using 1.10mm hook and it works much better with more thread.

First and second version together:

3 Scoops Crochet Mittens

Diamond stitch cone and strawberry, chocolate, and vanilla ice cream.

Waffle stitch cone and raspberry, lime, and blue hawaiian sorbet.

Yay mittens!

I love ice cream in the winter.  Also all the other seasons, but especially in the winter.  These ice cream mittens are zero calorie and super fun to make. 

This was a fun opportunity to combine some different textural stitches I've been figuring out.  The cuff can be worked in either diamond stitch or waffle stitch or one of your own design.  There are also tons of variations for the ruffle at the bottom of the scoops of ice cream.  I used half double crochet and 3 scoops but you can really go wild.  I also alternated between half double crochet and BLO + third bump hdc to make it look like the little lines that form when you scoop.  The idea is to make the bottom part cone-y and the top part ice cream-y, so do whatever puts the nuts on your sundae.

You can customize the size to fit any hand during the first row.  The stitch count will be slightly different depending on what style cuff you want because the stitches are worked in different multiples.  It will be within a few stitches and I can't tell the difference in the two I made.  I didn't finish my thumbs but you could if you wanted.  I was playing around with the idea of making the top of the thumb part of the first scoop but then I got lazy.

I did plan ahead enough to leave a gap for my finger to stick out for my phone.  You can really do this with any mitten pattern and it's really easy.  Just make a chain or single crochet foundation row and skip some stitches in the appropriate place and keep going.

Hole for your finger!

Peek-a-boo!

The ruffle might be intimidating if you've never worked those 3D stitches before, but once you get the hang of it, you'll be thinking of everything you can do with it.  I decided on mostly half double crochet stitches for this project and that's what the ruffle uses too.  I tried a bunch of different stitch types and counts for the ruffle but I think I like this best (for this project at least).

Pattern

Stitches used (sort of a lot, sorry!): single crochet foundation row or double crochet foundation row, double crochet, half double crochet (plus increases and decreases), front post triple crochet two together, half double crochet 3D stitches, half double crochet worked in the back loop only + the third bump.

Yarn: worsted weight acrylic in multiple colors.  I used whatever colors I had in my stash - just have fun it doesn't have to be perfect.

Hook size: I used a 4mm (size 8 or F) hook but use whatever you like with your yarn.  I liked using a smaller size than the yarn called for to make the stitches tighter and less hole-y.

Gauge: Gauge is not super important, you just have to make sure you're choosing the correct number of stitches to start with.  I made one of each type of mitten so the stitch count is slightly different but they both still fit.  You can add or remove rows in several places to make it bigger or smaller.

Cone base (wrist):

• Option 1: Diamond Stitch Cone
  Diamond shaped stitches are worked by alternating rows of double crochet and single crochet with long post stitches dipping into the rows below.  Mooglyblog has a great project using this stitch.  This pattern repeats over 4 stitches and 4 rows.
  Row 1: SCFR 28 (this needs to fit around your wrist/forearm comfortably and can be any number in multiples of 4.  28 fit me best with my yarn and hook.) Slip to first stitch and use the tail to connect the bottom of the stitches.
  Row 2: DC in each stitch (28)
  Row 3: This is the first row of the diamond stitch with single crochets and long post stitches. Ch 1, sc 3, FPTRC2tog in the 2nd and 6th stitch from the first row of scfr.  Skip the next stitch and sc 3.  You'll then repeat this around, working 3 sc and then working post stitches together in the first row, skipping 3 stitches between each when you place the posts. (This can be confusing if you've never worked the diamond stitch before.)
  Row 4: DC around (28)
  Row 5: Ch 1, sc 1, FPTRC2tog, sk1, sc 3 (repeat around)
  Row 6-9: repeat rows 2-5
  Row 10: HDC around (28)
  Don't break yarn - move down to hand section
• Option 2: Waffle Stitch Cone
  The waffle stitch is worked in multiples of 3 stitches over two rows.
  Row 1: DCFR 27 (this needs to fit around your wrist/forearm comfortably and can be any number in multiples of 3.  27 fit me best with my yarn and hook.) Slip to first stitch and use the tail to connect the bottom of the stitches.
  Row 2: Ch2 and DC in the same space (or make a standing double crochet).  Back post DC in the next 2 stitches. Repeat 1 DC, 2 BPDC around (27)
  Row 3: Ch 2 (don't count this as a stitch) FPDC around the normal DC from the last row and DC normally into the 2 BPDC from the last row.  Repeat this around.
  Row 4-7: Repeat rows 2 and 3 twice.
  Row 8. HDC increase once, HDC around (28) (this is because you need an even number in the next section)
  Row 9. HDC around, working into the black loop and the third bump (3rd bump adds stability) (28)
  Row 10: There's not a row 10 for this stitch.  Have a drink - you've earned it!
  Don't break yarn - move down to hand section

Cone top (hand): Using whatever base you selected, you will now start increasing in one side to make room for the thumb.  I like to mark my increases with a stitch marker so I don't have to count: mark the first stitch of the first increase and the second stitch of the second increase and make your subsequent increases in the marked stitches.  Move your markers up in each row.

Row 11: Both bases should have 28 stitches in their final row.  Working into your base: HDC inc in the first two stitches and HDC around (30)
Row 12: HDC inc, HDC 2, HDC inc, HDC around (32)

Row 13: HDC inc, HDC 4, HDC inc, HDC around (34)

Row 14: HDC inc, HDC 6, HDC inc, HDC around (36)

Row 15: HDC inc, HDC 8, HDC inc, HDC around (38)

Row 16: HDC inc, HDC 10, HDC inc, HDC around (40)

Row 17: HDC inc, HDC 12, HDC inc, HDC around (42)

1st Ice Cream Scoop: In the first row, you will separate the thumb from the rest of the hand.  If it feels wrong for your hand, you can move the stitches around a little for more or less thumb room.

Row 18: Place a stitch marker into the 2nd and 15th stitch to pin them together. You will be working single crochets in the back loop and the 3rd bump of the HDCs in the row below.  With an ice creamy color, sc in the first stitch, then into the 16th stitch.  The thumb is now isolated from the rest of the hand.  (Try it on now and adjust it a little if it doesn't fit.  Make sure the hand has an even number of stitches.)  Sc around (28)

Row 19: HDC around (28)

Row 20: This row is the ruffle at the bottom of the scoop.  We will be working around the half double crochets from the previous row.  When you work into the top of the stitches, only work into the front loop.  You will use the back loop in row 21, so be careful not to use it now.  To create the ruffle, you'll be working 3D HDCs around the posts of each stitch and also into the top of the stitch and the sc from 2 rows ago.  Ch 2.  In the first stitch, work in the front loop only, HDC 2.  Then you will work 2 HDC around the post of the next HDC from the previous round.  (To do this, turn your work 90 degrees clockwise.)  Then put 2 HDC into the Sc from 2 rows ago.  Next, you'll work 2 HDC into the next post (turning counterclockwise helps here).  You've now completed one repeat of the ruffle stitch.  Keep working around until you get back to the beginning and slip into the first HDC.  You now need to 'get back' down to work into the back loops of HDCs from row 19. Slip stitch into the ch 2 at the beginning of the row and also into the back loop of the first stitch from row 19.
Row 21: HDC into the back loop only of round 19 and also the 3rd bump (adds stability) (28)

Row 22: HDC around (28) (For added texture, alternate regular HDCs and working into the back loop + third bump)

Row 23: HDC around (28) (For added texture, alternate working into the back loop + third bump and regular HDCs)

2nd Ice Cream Scoop: Start a new color, join in any stitch. (I like to keep my seam on the thumb side of the mitten.)

Row 24: Sc in the back loop and third bump of the HDC below (28)

Row 25: HDC around (28)

Row 26: Repeat row 20

Row 27: Repeat row 21

Row 28: Repeat row 22

Row 29: In this row you will work 2 HDC decreases and HDC around the rest of the stitches.  The decreases should be placed on either side when the mitten is laid flat.  Your stitch count may be different than mine.  (26)

3rd Ice Cream Scoop: With a new color, join in any stitch.

Row 30: Sc in the back loop and third bump (26).  If you want to leave a small hole for your finger to stick out so you can swipe your smart phone, sc around until you reach the place your finger will stick out.  Either chain 4-5 or scfr 4-5 and then skip 4-5 stitches and keep sc'ing around.

Row 31: HDC around, making 2 decreases, one in each side of the mitten (24)

Row 32: Work row 20 again

Row 33: HDC in the first two stitches, dec and repeat around (18)

Row 34: HDC, dec around (12) 

Row 35: Dec around and close with tail.  You're all done!

Crochet Sugar Maple Leaves

I wanted to crochet some pretty Fall leaves but surprisingly there are few realistic leaf patterns out there.  I took a little time and made my own pattern for my favorite, the sugar maple leaf.

This pattern is worked in four rounds: 1 - a circle to start the shape, 2 - start the arms of the leaf, 3 - work around the arms to fill out the shape, and 4 - finish the shape with a stem and points.  It's not quite perfect, so it's more of a free form design with some basic guidelines.

Stitch Diagram:

And some basic instructions for the rows:  For the first stitch in each row either chain to the appropriate height or do a standing stitch.  In the second row where you are chaining and slipping into the chains, do it loosely so you can work into every stitch.  My pattern writing can be kind of confusing so follow along with the pictures and the diagram.  If you're a visual learner, I highly suggest learning how to read stitch diagrams.

The orange leaf was made with Paton's Grace and a size 2.75mm hook and the red was made with size 3 crochet thread.  You could use any yarn and hook size and color you want.  Have fun!

1. 12 DC in a magic ring, slip to top of first DC
2. 2 DC in the first 3 stitches of prv row.
   Arm 1: Chain 11 and slip into chains (leave the first and last chain unworked), then 2 DC in the next 3 stitches.
   Top arm: DC in the next stitch, chain 10, 9 slips back, DC in the same stitch.  2 DC in the next 3 stitches.
   Arm 2: Chain 10, slip back 9, then chain 1.   In the next 2 stitches, work 2 DC.  Slip into the top of the first DC
3. DC in the first 5 stitches (2DC, DC, 2 DC, DC, 2DC), (here there will appear to be too many spaces, you can crochet a few stitches together to close the space) then DC up the first arm 10 DC.
   In the top of the arm, DC 5 in the same space, back down the other side, DC 4, then DC 7 together (5 from the arm and 2 from the wheel).  DC in the next 2 stitches (you can put in a few extra stitches here if the finished pattern won't lay flat).
   Then DC 4 together (2 from the wheel, 2 from the top arm).  DC up the top arm (7), 5 DC in the top, DC down the side 7 DC, DC 4 together (2 from arm, 2 from wheel).  DC in next 2, DC 7 tog (2 from wheel, 5 from arm).
   4 DC up the 2nd arm, 5 together in the top, 10 DC down the arm.
   In the wheel: DC, 2DC, DC, slip to first DC.
4. 2 HDC tog in next 2 stitches,
   To make the stem, chain 9, slip back 8 (you can make this stem as long of short as you like)
   2 HDC tog in the next 2 stitches, DC, TC, in the next stitch, TC, picot, TC, then 3HCD, 2DC, TC, DC, picot, HDC
   Arm 1: 3sc, sc & DC together, picot, sc & DC together, in the next stitch TC, Picot, TC, DC & sc tog, in the next stitch DC, picot, HDC, then 3 HDC in the next 3 stitches.
   In between the arms: work 7 DC together.  If you put more stitches in this part in the row below, just work the middle 7 together and work extra stitches on either side.
   For the top arm: DC up the arm (5DC), then in the top 5 stitches work the following clusters: 1. DC, TC, picot 2. 2DC, 3. TC, picot, TC, 4. 2DC, 5. TC, picot, TC.
   DC back down the other side of the arm (5 DC), then work 7 DC together between the top and 2nd arm.
   For the last arm: 3 HDC up the side, then in the top 5 stitches: 1.) HDC, DC, picot, 2.) sc, DC, 3.) TC, picot, TC 4.) DC, sc, 5.) DC, picot, sc.  Then 3 sc in a row, HDC, picot, DC, TC, 2 DC.  3 HDC, in the next stitch TC, picot, TC.  TC, DC, and slip to the top of the first stitch.  (I like to finish my last stitch and then pull it through and weave it into the first stitch with a needle for a perfect edge.

Finishing the leaf: I wet blocked my examples and pulled the picots out gently to get a fine point.

How to Crochet a Faux Bullion Stitch Two Ways

I recently discovered the bullion stitch.  I love that I'm always finding new stitches and techniques to try but some of them are a real mess.  It looks amazing, but it's such a huge pain to make that I doubt I will be using them for anything extensive in the near future.  Mine were coming out looking like demented little tornadoes with all the loops popping off.

So here are two ways I've come up with to make a bullion-looking stitch without so much hassle:

1. The yarn over/horizontal puff stitch method

One row complete

Three rows complete

This looks pretty similar to the bullion stitch and you can adjust the height and how many loops you want wrapped around it.  You may have to poke the yarn on top a bit to get the loops into perfect position.  You can see on my little swatch that you have some half-looking loops, but that is fully correctable.  I didn't do anything fancy here, just worked three rows and worked each stitch in between the two below it, but you could work them right on top of each other and also include a single crochet or half double crochet row between the bullion stitches depending on how you want it to look.  I think it looks like a lot of little blue captain crunches.

This method is worked very similarly to how you would make a puff stitch, a lot of yarn overs and pulling loops up into the same space.  The difference here is that instead of working directly into a stitch from the row below, you'll make a chain and work around the chain as if you're doing a post stitch.  I have a lot of notes in the 'pattern' below because you can make a ton of variations for this depending on how you want to do it.

Directions: I started by chaining an odd number so that I would have a chain to skip between each stitch as these are bulky. (You could also make a single crochet foundation row that might be a little easier to work into.)  After the last chain, chain 3 more (or chain a lot more if you want a super tall stitch - it's totally up to you!) that will act as your first post.  Then yarn over, and reach the hook around the back of the chain as if you're working a post stitch and pull up a loop (3 loops on the hook).  Then you want to repeat this yarning over and pulling up a loop around the back of your chain a few more times (I did a total of three yarn over/loop pull ups around my 3 chains which will give you 7 loops on your hook, as 2 new loops are added for every repetition of yarn over/pull up loop.)  Then I yarned over one more time and pulled up a loop into the same beginning chain that I made my initial chain 3 into.  This is to secure the base of your stitch to the starting chain.  Then using the loop you just pulled up, continue pulling it through all of the loops you've created on your hook with the yarn over/pull ups.  (It may be easier to yarn over one more time and use that loop to pull through all the loops but I think it looks a little cleaner to do it the other way.)

To work more stitches, I chose to skip the next chain and insert my hook into the second chain away and chain 3 with the working yarn.  This way, you have nothing connecting your stitches in between them. You could make a really convenient crochet hook holder with these stitches because you can weave something big back and forth between the bullions very easily.  One additional variable you can throw in is that instead of chaining 3 for a post at the beginning of each stitch, you can work a double or triple crochet if you prefer that to chaining.  If you still want all your stitches to have spaces between, then be sure to wrap your hook fully around your double crochet including the yarn over bar.  This can be a little tricky because you're putting a lot of bulk into a small area and it's hard to see the bar.  The big difference is that the chain 3 will make the stitch a little flatter and the double crochet will make it a little fatter, so you decide if you want it flat or round.  One very last cool thing about this: if you weave your hook back and forth between these stitches after completing a row, it almost acts like a ribbing where half the stitches are pushed forward and half are pushed back and your hook will disappear in the middle.  Cool possibilities!

2. The double bullion/hairpin lace method

One row complete (into single crochet foundation row)

Two rows complete, you can see the right and wrong side

This method is similar to the other one, but you work your steps in a bit of a reverse order.  You start the same way by chaining/foundation chaining to set up, then either chain a few stitches or work a double crochet and work around it like a post.  The difference here is that instead of starting with a yarn over, you'll start by pulling up a loop around the back of your post, then yarning over and pulling through that loop and repeating, so you'll be working one half of the double bullion as you work around the post, and then at the end, you'll complete the second half by drawing through all the loops on your hook.  These have a 'double' look, or when scrunched together, look like double the amount of thinner stitches.  I say this is a hairpin lace method because the front and back do not look exactly alike, and there is a definite right side/wrong side when you use this one.  The back looks like a little hairpin lace or skeleton ribs to me.

Directions: Set up some chains or single crochet foundation row.  I worked into an odd number (but you can see in the photos that my side stitches bulge out a little, so maybe add a few?) and left one chain between each stitch.  To begin each stitch, either chain however many you want tall (I used 3) or double/triple crochet.  Now reach your hook around the back of the chain like a post stitch and pull up a loop.  Yarn over and pull through that one loop.  Then repeat pulling up a loop around the back and pulling a loop through it, each time adding one more loop to your hook.  When you have reached the bottom of your chain or double crochet, pull up a loop in the chain or stitch below your work to secure the stitch in place, then either pull that loop up and through all the loops or pull another loop through that one and then through all the others.

To work more stitches, skip one chain or stitch and work into every other stitch across your row.

You can see in the photo above that there is a right side/wrong side here, where you can see little bumps in the middle of your stitch in the wrong side.  You might want to work alternating rows of this stitch and single crochet or half double or something in order to keep your right sides facing out.

As far as I know, you can do everything with these two stitches that you could with a regular bullion stitch without the hassle.  Yay!

Homemade Hanging Pocket Organizer

These aren't too expensive to buy but it would be so easy to make with extra cloth, which I have a ton of.  You could make any size or dimension for a nice custom design.

Basic plan:

Make a big rectangle of cloth for the back, grommets for hangers or tube for curtain rod.  The backing cloth should be thick or doubled for stability.

For the pockets, sewing long strips of cloth with all finished edges.  Fold back and forth to create the pockets and sew along the bottom edge and side/between each pocket.  Straight stitch to attach and zigzag over top for stability.

Make a paper pattern first to confirm size for pockets and get the right size for the backing.

Mythosaur Stencil on the Wall

Finally got around to taking a picture of how our stencil came out on the wall.  Much messier than our trial run but we both agreed we like it like this with the drips.  Looks rugged and all mandalorian.

Crochet Humanoid Figure

Latest project - a little crochet thread figure base for a character.

For every project I make notes and diagrams in my graph paper notebook.

Finished size is about 5 inches tall.  Worked in crochet thread and embroidery thread on steel hooks.  For construction I started with head down into shoulders, then feet up into body and connect to shoulder piece.  Then separate arms attached to shoulders and hands added last.  The hands had to be very small so I had to find a matching embroidery thread color.  I could have done a little mitten.  Might change it up if I make another.  Wrote about three pages of notes to get everything right.  I intend to sew some little cloth clothes for him.

Pattern:

Hooks: 2.75mm and 1.3mm

Thread: Off white crochet thread & matching embroidery thread

Head:

Worked in rows and joined each row

R1: 5 sc in ring

R2: 10

R3: 12

R4: 12

R5: 12

R6: 12

R7: 10

Here I tied off, wove the tail through the 10 stitches and pulled tight.

Shoulders: 

Worked 6 slip stitches into the base of the finished off head - alternately you could decrease from 10 to 6 stitches.. not sure why I did it this way.  Worked 6 sc into the slip stitches, then work the shoulders/chest:

R1: Sc, sc, inc, sc, sc, inc

R2: Sc, sc, inc, inc, sc, sc, inc, inc

R3: Sc, sc, 3 sc in the next stitch - repeat 3 more times

R4: Sc, sc, sc, 3 sc in the next stitch, (sc, sc, sc, sc, 3 sc in the next stitch) repeat 2 more times, end with sc & tie off

Feet, legs, body:

R1: 6 sc in ring and slip to the first stitch (6), then ch and work 2 sc into the first 2 stitches (2), turn ch and work sc into the two you just made (2)

R2: ch 1, turn and in the back loops only, decrease the 2 stitches into 1, work another decrease into the side of the two rows of 2 sc, then work 5 sc around the circular part, work a decrease in the other side of the 2 short rows and slip stitch to the first stitch (8)

R3: Decrease, 4 sc, decrease (6)

R4: Decrease, 4 sc (5)

Then work rows of 5 sc (12 rows including round 4) and there should be 14 rows total in the foot and leg combined.

Tie off the first leg and work a second.

To connect the legs and start the body, you'll position the legs together so the feet are at an angle you like and work some sc in the current leg you just made until you get to the middle of the body (looking at the photos, I worked the left leg first and the right second) to make the gap between the legs, foundation sc a few stitches (mine was 2) and then attach to the second leg by sc around.  Then sc into the back side of the foundation stitches, and back around the first leg until you get to the first stitch you made so the pattern would be like:

In current leg, sc 3, foundation sc 2 stitches and then connect to the first leg and sc around (5), 2 sc in the back of the foundation sc, and 2 into the first leg, sl st to the first sc.  Work the next row, continuing around the current leg, into the foundation chain, around the other leg and back (14 stitches)

Then work around and around in rows of 14 stitches, should be 9-10 total rows in the body.

To connect the body to the shoulders, mark the 4 points where the shoulders will fold to meet the round body (2 opposite sides will attach to the body and 2 will become the arm holes).  For this, the shoulder piece will have 4 sides of 7 stitches each (not exactly on the corners) and those corners will meet on the two sides of the round body piece.  I added a little stuffing and sewed together with sewing thread & needle.

Arms:

R1: Sc 5 into a ring, slip to first stitch

R2: Work 5 sc in the back loops only (this end is the wrist so depending on what kind of hand you will make, you may want to work in both loops and keep the end open

Work about 8 rows of 5 sc and in the last full row, increase to 6 stitches, put the increase anywhere.

Last row: to make an angled shoulder work a short row of 2 sc and 1 slip stitch

Push a little more stuffing into the arm holes and sew on arms

Fingers and Thumbs:

For this I switched to embroidery thread and smaller hook and worked very small I cords.  These are very fidgety and leave a lot of ends to sew in.

For the fingers:

R1: Ch 3 and pull up a loop through chains 1 and 2 (3 loops on the hook)

R2: Pop off the first two loops and chain 1 through the remaining loop.  Put loop 2 back on the hook and chain 1, put loop 1 back on the hook and chain 1.

R3: Repeat row 2

R4: Pop off first two loops and chain 1 through the remaining loop.  Put the 2nd loop back on the hook and pull through the first, pull loop 1 through as well, tie off

For the thumb, work the same pattern but skip round 3 to make it shorter.

To attach the fingers and thumb, I used a different method on each hand.  First method is just sewing on individual fingers onto the end of the arm and the second is to crochet around all 4 fingers and then attach that to the arm.

All can be returned. All can be... taken away.

Rick and Morty is off to a great start of the second season.  I love how bizarre it is.

I have no more love to give today.

Very rough draft of darling Malory.

Welcome to Mos Eisley

If I ever move to Mos Eisley I think I would make this and hang it on my wall.  It's important to be proud of your home.

Just the text pattern:

Just the city pattern - not sure how I would do this part:

Bonus geek alphabet:

Mythosaur Knitting Project

My current project is a birthday present for a friend.  I've done one piece already and blocked it up - that one was tunisian crochet with a different symbol.  For this one I wanted to try out knitting a big rectangle and then using a duplicate knit stitch for my color work.  It doesn't matter if it's crochet or tunisian or knitting, changing colors is a huge hassle.  Also, different mediums have different dimensions so my original pattern meant for tunisian isn't going to work for knitting.  Is there such a thing as knitting graph paper?  My stockinette knit stitches are much shorter than crochet or tunisian stitches (and normal tunisian stitches turned out taller than tunisian knit stitches - why can't everything just be nice and square?).  I have a feeling that cross stitch and I are going to be the best of friends once I get around to actually working on the patterns I've made.  Too many ideas and not enough time.

My stitches seem like they're about 20 per 4 inches in a column and about 15 per 4 inches in a row so I'm going to set my excel sheet up for 40 pixel columns and 30 pixel rows and overlay a picture and place my stitches.

Using my same width of 41 stitches wide (plus 2 for each side = 45 total), the length comes out to 69 stitches high plus some garter stitch on the top and bottom.  I've got my rectangle made now so I just have to see how the shape comes out once the duplicate stitches are placed.  Are you supposed to block before or after you do duplicate stitch?....

Homemade Hairpin Lace Loom

I decided to try to make a loom rather than buying one.  They're so simple looking, I just couldn't justify spending the money.  This is my little practice version made of wooden skewers from the kitchen drawer and some cardboard box parts (I think from some $1 glowsticks from Target - it was a "wild" night.)  It works perfectly well for my needs right now.  It would be easy to do an upgrade with some coat hangers or unused straight knitting needle and maybe some plastic.

Separation

I discovered this sad and beautiful poem recently by W. S. Merwin. I think it would make a wonderful cross stitch piece if I can ever get my act together.

Separation
BY W. S. MERWIN

Your absence has gone through me
Like thread through a needle.
Everything I do is stitched with its color.


Finally chose a style I like best:

Playing around with some layouts with fading backgrounds...

And no background with fading lettering...

Sometimes if I can't make up my mind I just wait a while and eventually one option seems like the only option.

The Starry Night

I got this crazy idea back in April that I couldn't get out of my head.  I wanted to make a huge blanket made of tiny squares so it looked pixelated.  I've seen some pretty cool ones of 8 bit cartoons but this... I wanted it to be spectacular.  Something that would take at least a year or two.

I decided on The Starry Night.  It's a wonderful and iconic painting and instantly recognizable.  I've always felt drawn to this painting, not only for it's beauty but also to its connection with mental illness and the fact that Van Gogh considered it a failure and didn't see it fit to be mailed off with the rest of his paintings from this time in order to save on postage.

In order to do it any kind of justice, I decided on 2 inch squares.  3,604 of them.  I've already bought all the yarn I need and it's doing a wonderful job of keeping me distracted on my commute.  I'm not sure how many squares I have done at this point.  A few hundred probably.  I think I might construct pieces of it and photograph them so I can see what it would look like when it's done.

Colors laid out in excel (great way to count and label squares)

16 chunks with color labels