Fall Leaf Paper Lantern

This picture wouldn't focus because it was dark and it turned out all artsy.

A Saturday in the middle of October is perfect for making paper lanterns.  The days are getting darker and colder and I need some candles in my life.

This is a fairly simple project to make and you can customize it for any holiday or occasion.

I started with a piece of 12 x 12 paper that came in a big book from Michael's and cut it in half so I had 2 pieces of 6 x 12.  It's not truly 12 x 12 so there's an extra little lip to help glue the sides together.

It's a bit hard to see but the above photo is divided into 4 sections that are 3 inches wide plus a tiny lip on one side.  I used a bone folder to score the paper so it would fold easily.

Trace a leaf shape on each of the 4 big panels.  You could put anything on there, I just happen to have some leaf templates from the wreath I'm making.

Carefully cut out the leaf shapes with a very sharp exacto blade or craft knife.  I use a piece of cardboard underneath from an Amazon box.  I cut out the leaf in one piece so I have the leaf shapes to put on the table for decoration.

Here are all the leaves cut out and the right side of the paper up.

Next I cut out a rough rectangle of white tissue paper big enough to fit over the entire card stock.

Trim down the tissue paper to size and attach it to the back side of the paper.  I like to use this tape adhesive so the papers don't wrinkle and there is no mess.  It makes a huge difference in projects like this.  Once the tissue paper is attached, you can connect up the sides of the box using the thin tab on the side.

All done.  I did not put a bottom on the box so that it's easier to use with a candle.  Feeling cozy and ready for cooler weather.

Fall Leaf Written Pattern & Stitch Diagram Update

Here's my finished example worked from this pattern and then wet blocked.

Previous post: http://theunknownorchard.blogspot.com/2015/09/fall-leaf-pattern.html

Bit of an update.  This seems to be pretty popular so I've revisited the pattern and made some changes as well as actually writing a row by row pattern.  This is quite an advanced pattern and not easy to write so leave me a comment below if you need some clarification or find a mistake.  I think the final result has come out pretty nice after some blocking.

Notes:

• When working on a right side row into the top of a double crochet from the previous round, I like to work into the back loops only to make the front loops pop out and create a line in the work.  When working on a wrong side row, work into the front loops only.
• You may need more or less chains to form the initial ring before you start.  There is not gauge for this, so find what works for you.  I found 12 chains worked well to place 24 double crochets into the ring.
• As you go, you will work less and less of the whole round as this is what causes the leaves to be different sizes.  For the sides of the leaves to taper down to a point, you'll need to omit some double crochets on the edges, which I've tried to explain in the pattern.  For me, I used the basic rule of leaving a gap of 3 double crochets unworked on the edges and one double crochet at the very edge.  You may find you like more or less to be unworked depending on the look you're going for.
• Previously I chose to finish the right half of the leaf as I went and the left with a final row of single crochet.  In this version, there will be a final row that works around the entire leaf so that the result is even all the way around.  The final row is easy to work, but hard to follow in a written pattern because it's so repetitive.  Just remember that you work a single crochet into the top of all the double crochets.  When you come to a chain space, you'll work (2 sc, picot, 2 sc) and when working into the standing stitches, you'll work 2 single crochet around each one as if you're working around a chain.  The diagram should help to explain all this.
• I've also changed the number of chains in the center of leaves from 2 to 3.  I like it a bit more roomy to work into.
• I use standing double crochet stitches frequently for the first stitch in a row.  You can do chain 3 if you like.  It should not make too much of a difference as you will cover a lot of them up later.  The diagram uses 3 chains to make it easy to see what you're doing and where the rows join.

Updated stitch diagram.

Chain 12 and join into a ring.
[Right side] rows: work into back loops only and chain spaces
[Wrong side] rows: work into front loops only and chain spaces

1. [Right side] Make a DC standing stitch: insert hook into the ring to yarn over. DC 23 more into the ring and join to the top of the first standing stitch (24)
2. [RS] Chain 1 and sc in same stitch. (Chain 3 and skip 1 stitch.  Sc in the back loop of the next DC.) Repeat around, slip into first sc.
3. [RS] Slip into the next chain space and make a standing DC and another DC into the space. Chain 3 and make 2 more DC in the same space. (2 DC in next chain space, chain 3, 2 more DC in same space) Repeat around.  Slip to the top of the first standing stitch.
4. [RS] Slip into the next chain space and make a standing DC and another 2 DC into the space.  Chain 3 and make 3 more DC in the same space.  (3 DC in the next chain space, chain 3, 3 more DC in the same space) Repeat around (12 total leaves). Slip to the top of the first standing stitch.
5. [RS] Make a standing DC in the top of the previous one from round 4.  Into the next chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC. Work 1 DC in the back loop of the next DC from previous round. (Skip 4 stitches and work into the back loop of the 5th stitch 1 DC.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 1 more DC into the back loop of the next DC from previous round) Repeat 7 more times for a total of 9 clusters, leaving three unworked where the smaller leaves and stem will be.  In the last repetition, place the last DC over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
6. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make a standing stitch (you are no longer working in the round).  Skip to the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Then work  DC into the front loop of the next two stitches.  (Skip 4 stitches and work into the front loops of the 5th and 6th stitches, placing 1 DC into each.  In the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work a DC in the front loop of each of the next two stitches.)  Repeat 7 more times for 9 total leaves.  In the last repetition, omit 2 DC from the edge (3 in the chain space, and 1 more into the standing stitch from the previous round for straight edge).
7. [Right Side] Chain 1 and turn.   Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch.  Sc 2.  Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  5 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC in the first stitch, then skip 2 stitches and place 1 DC BLO in the last stitch before the chain space.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC into the next 3 stitches BLO. (Skip 4 stitches and work into the back loop of the 5th, 6th, and 7th stitch 1 DC each.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 3 more DC into the back loops of the next 3 stitches.)  Repeat 5 more times.  In the last repetition, work the chain space, then place only 1 DC next to it and place the last DC over to the left (skip 3 stitches) between clusters to create a straight edge.
8. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 1 DC into the next stitch FLO. Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 4 DC in the front loops in the next 4 stitches.  (Skip 4 stitches and work into the back loop of the 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8ths stitch 1 DC each.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 4 more DC into the back loops of the next 4 stitches.)  Repeat 5 more times for 7 total leaves.  In the last repetition, place 1 DC after the chain space and the last DC over to the left between clusters (skip 3 stitches) to create a straight edge.
9. [Right Side] Chain 1 and turn.  Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch.  Sc 3.  Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  7 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC BLO, then skip 3 stitches and work 3 BLO DCs.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC BLO into the next 5 stitches. (Skip 4 stitches and work 5 DC into the back loop of the 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, and 9th stitch (1 DC in each).  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 5 more DC into the back loops of the next 5 stitches.)  Repeat 3 more times for a total of 5.  In the last repetition, place 3 DC after the last chain space, skip 3 and place 1 more over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
10. [Wrong Side]  Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 3 DC FLO.  Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 6 DC in the front loops in the next 6 stitches.  (Skip 4 stitches and work into the front loop of the 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th stitch 1 DC each.  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 6 more DC into the back loops of the next 6 stitches.)  Repeat 3 more times.  In the last repetition, place only 5 DC and one last DC over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
11. [Right Side] Chain 1 and turn. Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch. Sc 5. Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  9 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC BLO, then skip 3 stitches and work 5 BLO DCs.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC BLO into the next 7 stitches. (Skip 4 stitches and work 7 DC into the back loop of the next 7 stitches (1 DC in each).  Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 7 more DC into the back loops of the next 7 stitches.)  Repeat 1 more time.  In the last repetition, place 8 DC after the last chain space, skip 3 and place 1 more over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
12. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 5 DC FLO. Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 8 DC in the front loops in the next 8 stitches.(Skip 4 stitches and work into the front loop of the next 8 stitches (1 DC each). Into the chain space work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC. Work 8 more DC into the back loops of the next 8 stitches.)Repeat 1 more time.In the last repetition, place only 5 DC and one last DC over to the left between clusters to create a straight edge.
13. [Right Side]  Chain 1 and turn.  Do not work the same stitch that you've chained in, and also skip 1 more stitch.  Sc 7.  Into the chains of the chain space, work 1 slip stitch into each chain very loosely.  11 more sc along the top.  At the beginning of the second cluster, DC BLO, then skip 3 stitches and work 7 BLO DCs.  Into the chain space and work: 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  DC BLO into the next 7 stitches, skip 3 and place 1 more DC.
14. [Wrong Side] Turn work and make standing DC.  Skip 3 stitches and work 7 DC FLO. Into the chain space, work 3 DC, chain 3, 3 DC.  Work 7 more FLO DC, skip 3 stitches and place a last DC.
15. (This will get a bit wordy, so use your best judgement following this pattern and the diagram: In the top of double crochets, work a single crochet.  In chain spaces, work 2 sc, picot, 2 sc.  Down the side of standing stitches and double crochets, place 2 sc in each.  On the right half of the leaf, you'll only want to place 3.)  Chain 1 and turn. Skip 1 stitch and sc 9.  In the chain space, sc 2, picot, sc 2.  SC 10 down the other side. Sc 4 down the side of the 2 standing stitches (2 each around the DCs like working into a chain space).  Sc 11 up the next side, sc 2, picot, sc 2 in the chain space.  8 sc down the side.  4 sc down the side of the 2 standing stitches. Sc 9 up the next side, work chains space, sc 6.  4 sc down the side of the 2 standing stitches.  Sc 7, work the next chain space.  Sc 4 and work 4 down the side of the 2 standing stitches.  Sc 5, work the chain space. Sc 3, work 4 into the 2 standing stitches.  Sc 3, work the chain space, sc 3.  Sc 3, 2 sc in the chain space, chain X, then slip back X-1.  2 more sc in the chains space.  Sc 6, work chain space.  Sc 3, sc 4 up the 2 standing stitches.  3 sc, chain space, 5 sc.  3 sc up the standing stitches. 4 sc, chain space, 7sc.  3 up the standing stitches.  6 sc, work the chain space, 9 sc,  3 sc up the standing stitches.  8 sc, work the chain space, 10 sc. 3 up the standing stitches.  Finish with an invisible join.

P.S. A special hello to you if you came from Moogly or PetalstoPicots.  I love seeing everybody's projects there!

Guns Are'nt Fun

Did a little cross stitch for our wall from our favorite show, Rick and Morty.

Here's the pattern if you want to play along:

Handle your shit, Fabious, please.

One of my favorite things to do when I'm feeling down is to rewatch funny movies.  One of our favorites is Your Highness.  I've stitched a little tribute to Danny McBride and James Franco.

It's my first real finished cross stitch piece and I'm pleased with it, although it's not perfect.  I finally bought a frame for it last night.  It probably needs to be ironed a bit more but I wanted to get it up on the wall.

I designed the font myself based on the opening credits from the movie and it took a bit of work to get it right.  I thought about including a little something from the scene but I'm not too confident in my stitching skills just yet.

My pattern I worked from with the little drawing included:

Moroccan Market Tote (free pattern from Moogly!)

I finally remembered to take some pictures of this bag that I finished a few weeks ago.  Not at all too soon, either, as I'm giving it as a timely gift for my boss's Summer birthday.

The pattern comes from mooglyblog: http://www.mooglyblog.com/moroccan-market-tote/ and I won (yes me I won something!) free yarn from her in this contest to make it: http://www.mooglyblog.com/lion-brand-yarn-moroccan-market-tote-giveaway/

The pattern is simple enough once you get the hang of it and it's all repeats, but complicated enough to give you some visual interest in the finished bag.  I chose to add some stripes around the top for an extra detail.  

The yarn is Lion Brand's 24/7 Cotton.  It's a bit of a strange looking yarn because of the way it's plied that makes it look like a little rope, but it was wonderful to work with.  The colors I chose are Ecru (the tan), Magenta (the dark pink), and Pink (the light pink).  (I also got some skeins of the jade, aqua, and grass because I really can't resist those colors so now I have more yarn for a different project!!)  This yarn was really fun to work with and has a perfect combination of sturdiness that I expect from cotton while also being soft and squishy.  I think it's partly how it's plied and spun and partly that it's a mercerized cotton, more like crochet thread than cotton yarn in feel and how it works up.  It is called a worsted weight yarn but it seemed on the thin side of worsted and I think I ended up using a smaller crochet hook than the packaging calls for to make the stitches more dense.

Posted my little pattern on ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/UnknownOrchard/moroccan-market-tote

Crochet Peacock Feather Earrings Design

This has been on my idea list for a long long time.  I'm trying to work through the list instead of just adding new ideas to it.  It's meant to be a revolving door, not a bottomless pit.

So the basic design for this will use the pattern for a simple crocheted circle, but I'll switch out stitch types to shape it and keep the stitch count for each row the same.  I may add some spike stitches for the light blue row and some longer stitches for the top of the last row to join it into the feather top.  I want to add some of the long dangly feather parts later and I'm thinking of doing them as a strip of broomstick lace like I use for doll hair sometimes.

I plan on using embroidery floss (not sure on the strand count yet) to make it small and intricate.  I may add a piece of wire partway through to add stability but I'll see how that goes.

Considering working in the back loops only to make a more pronounced color change.

I want to alternate each row where the increases are to make it more circular and less angular.

Draft Diagram:

Scrap yarn prototype:

Don't think I followed through on row three with my changes to include some triple crochets, and I'm not sure if the final round is better off with hdc or dc at the widest part.

Written pattern: (possible BLOs throughout for color changes)

1. 12 DC in ring [dark blue]
2. (HDC 2 in next)x2, (DC 2 in next)x8, (HDC 2 in next)x2 [darkblue]
3. Sc 1, sc 2 in next, (HDC 1, 2 in next)x3, DC 1, DC 2 in next, (TRC 1, 2 in next)x2, DC 1, DC 2 in next, (HDC 1, 2 in next)x3, Sc 1, sc 2 in next [light blue] (consider spike stitches at beginning and end of round)
4. (Sc 2 in next, sc 2)x2, (HDC 2 in next, HDC 2)x2, DC 2 in next, DC 2, (TRC 2 in next, TRC 2)x2, DC 2 in next, DC 2, (HDC 2 in next, HDC 2)x2, (Sc 2 in next, sc 2)x2 [gold or yellow]
5. (Sc 3, sc 2 in next)x3, (HDC 3, HDC 2 in next)x6, (Sc 3, sc 2 in next)x3 [green] (consider longer stitches at beginning and end of round)
6. Make some basic broomstick lace in green and add around - attach findings for earrings.

Now I just need to actually find some time and actually make them!

Actually working on something the next day and my mind hasn't wondered off to other projects.  Strange.

Thoughts...

• I like the colors.  They are I think all DMC.  796, 132A, 581, and 90A.  I have a darker green in 580 that I might use for the tassles.
• Alternating increases and BLO work has giving it a nice detail.  I also used a invisible color change/join.  I like that except for the first 2 rows, all the colors are done in one row each but I could change that.
• I used a size 1.10mm hook, mostly because I couldn't put my hand on the 1mm I wanted and the .85 was too small.  I think a slightly smaller hook will make it more compact and professional looking.
• Not sure on the final shape... the triple stitches don't hold their shape super well.  Maybe some blocking a smaller hook will change that.  I think the gold row could use some more longer stitches.

New version with 4 strands held together:

Thoughts:

• This is what I get for being so picky - now maybe it's too big - try just 3 strands held together?
• Spike stitches should go all the way down to the center and maybe add 1 or 2 more?
• Thing at the top didn't work, need more building up in surrounding stitches - also should I add a point at the bottom?
• Still using 1.10mm hook and it works much better with more thread.

First and second version together:

Little Doomguy Doll

Life's tough out there, you know?  Hell portals.. crazy scientists... levers opening up secret doors to ancient graphics... who knows what you're going to find.  That's why it's important to have a friend to help you through it all.

And just between you and me, it helps a lot if your friend has a chainsaw.

Ruuummmm rumm rummmmmm!

I had a tough time deciding when this one was 'finished'.  So many details...  I think it came out alright though.  He stands up on his own, even while holding the chainsaw.  I'm pretty impressed with him.  Good job, fella.  I like to imagine what Toy Story would be like if Andy got this instead of Woody.

Kuchi Kopi

My own little Kuchi Kopi from Bob's Burgers!  Once again this is a case of not being able to find an existing pattern for something I want to make so I made it a quick little weekend project of it.

Here's a little pattern so you can make one too! (Let me know if you find any mistakes.)

Yarns used:

• for the body: Sugar 'n Cream Hot Green (hook size F/5 3.75mm)
• for the eyes: Patons Grace Snow (steel hook #1 2.75mm)
• for the bow tie: Patons Grace Aquifer (steel hook #1 2.75mm)

You'll also need 2 black seed beads for the eyes and some stuffing.  I used poly-fil.

The body is worked from the bottom up and the head is worked from the top down and the two pieces are seamed in the middle.  (Leave a long tail on either the head or body for sewing.)  The seam is then hidden by the string for the bow tie.

Pattern:

Body: (Work by joining rows for the flat bottom and then in continuous rounds for the rest.)

1. 6 sc in magic ring. Slip to first sc. (6)
2. Chain 1, 2 sc in each stitch. Slip to first sc. (12)
3. Chain 1.  Sc, inc around.  Slip to first sc. (18)
4. Chain 1, 2 sc, inc around. Slip to first sc. (24)
5. Chain 1, sc in each stitch around in the back loop only. Don't slip to the first stitch, from here you will work continuously around. (24)
6. Sc 5, inc around (28)
7. Sc 6, inc around (32)
8. Sc 7, inc around (36)
9. Sc around (36)
10. Sc around (36)
11. Sc 4, decrease around (30)
12. Sc 3, decrease around (24)
13. Sc around.  Slip to the first sc.  There will be a bumpy edge that you will match up with the bump in the head. (24)
    

Head: (Work in continuous rounds.)

1. 6 sc in magic ring. (6)
2. Inc around (12)
3. Sc, inc around (18)
4. 2 sc, inc around (24)
5. 3 sc, inc around (30)
6. Sc around (30)
7. Sc around (30)
8. Sc around (30)
9. Sc around (30)
10. Sc around (30)
11. Sc 3, decrease around (24)
12. Sc around (24)

Stuff the body and head and use the tails to sew the two together.  They should meet nicely where the bumps line up.  Sew about 3/4 the way around and stuff more stuffing in to get the correct amount.

Ears: (Make two)

1. 4 sc in magic ring. Slip to first sc. (4)
2. Chain 1, 2 sc in each stitch.  Slip to first sc. (8)
3. Chain 1, sc around.  Slip to first sc. (8)

Leave a long tail and sew the pieces together at the bottom so they have a flat edge to attach to the head. (Don't stuff.)

Arms: (Make two)

1. 4 sc in magic ring (4)
2. Inc around (8)
3. Sc around (8)
4. Sc around (8)
5. 2 sc, dec around (6)
6. Sc around (6)

Leave a long tail and sew the pieces together at the top so they have a flat edge to attach to the body, just below the bow tie.  (Don't stuff.)  I also sewed the arms so they lie flat to the body.

Eyes: (Make two, working in a continuous spiral)

1. 6sc in magic ring (6)
2. Inc around (12)
3. Sc, inc around, slip to first sc. (18)

With sewing thread, attach a black seed bead to the center of the eye.

Bow tie: (Make a long chain that spans the neck of the doll, then slip into each stitch back to make the string.  Then make and attach the bow tie.)

1. Chain 2, sc in the first chain. (1)
2. Chain 1 and turn. 2 sc in the sc from row 1. (2)
3. Chain 1 and turn. 2 sc in the first, 1 sc in the next. (3)
4. Chain 1 and turn. 2 sc in the first, sc in the next 2 (4)
5. Chain 1 and turn. Sc across. (4)
6. Chain 1 and turn. Dec the first two stitches, sc in the next 2 (3)
7. Chain 1 and turn. Dec the first two stitches, sc in the next (2)
8. Chain 1 and turn. Dec the two stitches. (1)
9. Chain 1 and turn. Sc 1 (1)
10. - 16. Repeat rows 2 thru 8.

Use the starting tail and the end tail to tie the ends together.  Wrap the ends of the tail around the middle in the thin part to form the bow tie and knot twice on the back side.  Sew the bow tie to the string and attach the string to the doll.

Finishing touch: I like to add a row of slip stitches to the bottom of the doll on the loops that stick out from working in the back loops only.  This acts as a stand so it doesn't tip over as easily.

All the Dinosaurs Feared the T-Rex!

Here's my little Deadpool rendition of the super popular Timothy the T-rex pattern available from BluephoneStudios' etsy shop.  It's one paid patterns I didn't mind spending money on.  I followed the pattern, using red for the main color and black for the alternate color.  I did not add safety eyes because I wanted to add my own applique ones.  The black part is made by making 2 half circles and then single crocheting around the moon shape and the white is a simple 6sc in a magic ring.  I also started off the hands and feet with black and switched to red about halfway through.

Of course, Deadpool needs his little friend as well.  The unicorn was made from this super cute and simple pony pattern from Allaboutami.  I made a few alterations to this pattern as well.  I wanted a clean color change for the feet so I used a method where you slip around with the new color and then sc in the BLO of those slip stitches.  I also changed the hair to a simple series of curls made by chaining and then working 2 sc in each chain.  I think I chained maybe 15 to start.  The horn is made with size 10 crochet thread and a simple pattern: 4sc in mr, 4sc, then increase once in the next round and work even in the next.  Then you alternate adding one stitch to alternate rounds so it slowly grows.  I worked this part in continuous rounds to avoid a seam.

All done.  Now they are special pals!

Crochet Rose Applique

   

I don't normally buy crochet patterns.  Half the fun is figuring out how to make what I want.  Once in a while, though, I find something really pretty that someone has put a lot of time and effort into.  I found some really beautiful and intricate flower patterns on etsy a few weeks ago and I've been making tons of little rose appliques.  I was really impressed by how realistic her flower patterns are.  They call for very fine thread (size 20 crochet thread) which helps get that shaping.  Here's a link to the pattern that I bought:

https://www.etsy.com/transaction/1122932112

The shop is Happy Patty Crochet and she has tons of amazing flower patterns.

While the pattern is easily accessible, size 20 crochet thread can be hard to find for a good price in the colors you want.  I've ended up trying out a few alternatives.  Embroidery floss and thread for friendship bracelets have turned out to be some pretty good options.  The main benefit of course is the color availability.  Easily hundreds of colors in solids, variegated, metallics, etc, but in order to get the correct size for a 1mm hook, you need to work with just 2 strands held together, so there's a lot of thread separating to do.  For the friendship thread, you need to separate the two strands that are twisted together, which weakens the thread and can cause it to break if you're not really careful.

The rose in the photo above is made with three colors of friendship thread.  In the last picture is the thread before separating the two strands.  Once separated, the strands have a fuzzy soft quality that squishes the stitches together.  I really like how the final piece comes out, but the thread does break a lot so it's a pain to work with.

I love making really small projects and this finished flower is about 1 1/2 inches across.  Really fun!

How to Crochet Garter Stitch

Like many crocheters, I'm fascinated by crochet stitches that look knitted.  There are plenty of patterns for recreating stockinette but I've never seen one for garter.  I had a happy little accident today and figured out one way to do it.

This is worked in tunisian crochet and is very simple to do.  Chain any number you like and then pick up stitches in the chain back across.  I like to pick up stitches in the bump of the chain.  Work back pulling through 2 loops at a time like you normally would. When you go to pick up stitches in the next row, I pick up the stitches through the back bump loops on top instead of the vertical bars.  This is what creates the look of the garter stitch.  You're always working on the backside of the piece, so you'll need to turn it over to see how it's going.

Here's the crochet swatch next to one that is actually knitted:

Crochet on the left, knitting on the right.

Not exactly sure why I find this so exciting considering I know how to knit as well, but it was fun to play around with.

The Fleeb

Everyone has a plumbus in their home, but how do they make the plumbus?  Well I'll tell you: fleeb has a very instrumental role.  It's important that the fleeb is rubbed because the fleeb has all the fleeb juice.  But how do they make the fleeb in the first place?

Today on How They Do It: Fleeb

Body:
For the body of the Fleeb, cotton worsted weight yarn is used.  Make sure your 4mm hook shows up to rub the yarn.  The body consists of single crochets and bobble stitches.  (For these bobble stitches, work 4 double crochets together in the same stitch.  Make 1 body.

1. Sc 8 into a magic ring.  Slip to first stitch. (8)
2. Sc in first stitch, sc and bobble stitch in the next.  Repeat around. (12)
3. Sc 2, inc around (16)
4. Sc, sc + bobble around (24)
5. Sc 2, inc around (32)
6. Sc, bobble around (32)
7. Sc around (32)
8. Sc, bobble around (32)
9. Sc around (32)
10. Sc, bobble around (32)
11. Sc around (32)
12. Sc, bobble around (32)
13. Sc 2, dec around (24)
14. Dec, bobble around (16) [Stuff some polyfill in now]
15. Sc 2, dec around (12) [Stuff to satisfaction]
16. Dec, bobble around (8)
    Cut yarn and use tail to sew the remaining 8 stitches shut.  Weave in both ends.

Arms:

Using size 3 cotton crochet thread, we'll make the arms out of chains and slip stitches.

Chain 15 (the length of the arm) + 6 (the length of the first finger).  Slip stitch into the second chain on the hook and the next 4 stitches (5 slip stitches).  I work these into the back bump of the chain.  Now chain 6 more and slip back into the second chain from the hook and then next 4 stitches.  Repeat this one more time (ch 6, slip 5).  Now slip into the 15th chain from the beginning which is where the fingers meet the arm.  Slip into all of the rest of the chains.  Make 2 arms.

Eyes:

Using size 3 white cotton crochet thread, we'll make eyes and sew on a red bead for the pupil.

1. Sc 6 in a magic ring.  Slip to first stitch.
2. Chain 1, sc 2, sc 2, hdc 2, sc 2, sc 2, hdc 2, slip to first stitch.

Using red sewing thread a 2 seed beads, sew the beads onto the center of the eyes.  Make 2 eyes.

Construction:

The top of the fleeb will be row 1 and the decreases will be on the bottom where the fleeb juice comes out.  Sew on the arms using the two tails. (Thread one of the arms through the body, tie the two tails together and pull the tails through the work and cut.)  I have sewn my arms between rows 13 and 14, about 6 bobbles apart.

To attach the eyes, choose two bobbles in row 13 and push them inwards so they invert.  Place the eyes over the inverted bobbles and pin in place.  Use white sewing thread to attach.

The fleeb is now ready to aid in the construction of the plumbus.

3 Scoops Crochet Mittens

Diamond stitch cone and strawberry, chocolate, and vanilla ice cream.

Waffle stitch cone and raspberry, lime, and blue hawaiian sorbet.

Yay mittens!

I love ice cream in the winter.  Also all the other seasons, but especially in the winter.  These ice cream mittens are zero calorie and super fun to make. 

This was a fun opportunity to combine some different textural stitches I've been figuring out.  The cuff can be worked in either diamond stitch or waffle stitch or one of your own design.  There are also tons of variations for the ruffle at the bottom of the scoops of ice cream.  I used half double crochet and 3 scoops but you can really go wild.  I also alternated between half double crochet and BLO + third bump hdc to make it look like the little lines that form when you scoop.  The idea is to make the bottom part cone-y and the top part ice cream-y, so do whatever puts the nuts on your sundae.

You can customize the size to fit any hand during the first row.  The stitch count will be slightly different depending on what style cuff you want because the stitches are worked in different multiples.  It will be within a few stitches and I can't tell the difference in the two I made.  I didn't finish my thumbs but you could if you wanted.  I was playing around with the idea of making the top of the thumb part of the first scoop but then I got lazy.

I did plan ahead enough to leave a gap for my finger to stick out for my phone.  You can really do this with any mitten pattern and it's really easy.  Just make a chain or single crochet foundation row and skip some stitches in the appropriate place and keep going.

Hole for your finger!

Peek-a-boo!

The ruffle might be intimidating if you've never worked those 3D stitches before, but once you get the hang of it, you'll be thinking of everything you can do with it.  I decided on mostly half double crochet stitches for this project and that's what the ruffle uses too.  I tried a bunch of different stitch types and counts for the ruffle but I think I like this best (for this project at least).

Pattern

Stitches used (sort of a lot, sorry!): single crochet foundation row or double crochet foundation row, double crochet, half double crochet (plus increases and decreases), front post triple crochet two together, half double crochet 3D stitches, half double crochet worked in the back loop only + the third bump.

Yarn: worsted weight acrylic in multiple colors.  I used whatever colors I had in my stash - just have fun it doesn't have to be perfect.

Hook size: I used a 4mm (size 8 or F) hook but use whatever you like with your yarn.  I liked using a smaller size than the yarn called for to make the stitches tighter and less hole-y.

Gauge: Gauge is not super important, you just have to make sure you're choosing the correct number of stitches to start with.  I made one of each type of mitten so the stitch count is slightly different but they both still fit.  You can add or remove rows in several places to make it bigger or smaller.

Cone base (wrist):

• Option 1: Diamond Stitch Cone
  Diamond shaped stitches are worked by alternating rows of double crochet and single crochet with long post stitches dipping into the rows below.  Mooglyblog has a great project using this stitch.  This pattern repeats over 4 stitches and 4 rows.
  Row 1: SCFR 28 (this needs to fit around your wrist/forearm comfortably and can be any number in multiples of 4.  28 fit me best with my yarn and hook.) Slip to first stitch and use the tail to connect the bottom of the stitches.
  Row 2: DC in each stitch (28)
  Row 3: This is the first row of the diamond stitch with single crochets and long post stitches. Ch 1, sc 3, FPTRC2tog in the 2nd and 6th stitch from the first row of scfr.  Skip the next stitch and sc 3.  You'll then repeat this around, working 3 sc and then working post stitches together in the first row, skipping 3 stitches between each when you place the posts. (This can be confusing if you've never worked the diamond stitch before.)
  Row 4: DC around (28)
  Row 5: Ch 1, sc 1, FPTRC2tog, sk1, sc 3 (repeat around)
  Row 6-9: repeat rows 2-5
  Row 10: HDC around (28)
  Don't break yarn - move down to hand section
• Option 2: Waffle Stitch Cone
  The waffle stitch is worked in multiples of 3 stitches over two rows.
  Row 1: DCFR 27 (this needs to fit around your wrist/forearm comfortably and can be any number in multiples of 3.  27 fit me best with my yarn and hook.) Slip to first stitch and use the tail to connect the bottom of the stitches.
  Row 2: Ch2 and DC in the same space (or make a standing double crochet).  Back post DC in the next 2 stitches. Repeat 1 DC, 2 BPDC around (27)
  Row 3: Ch 2 (don't count this as a stitch) FPDC around the normal DC from the last row and DC normally into the 2 BPDC from the last row.  Repeat this around.
  Row 4-7: Repeat rows 2 and 3 twice.
  Row 8. HDC increase once, HDC around (28) (this is because you need an even number in the next section)
  Row 9. HDC around, working into the black loop and the third bump (3rd bump adds stability) (28)
  Row 10: There's not a row 10 for this stitch.  Have a drink - you've earned it!
  Don't break yarn - move down to hand section

Cone top (hand): Using whatever base you selected, you will now start increasing in one side to make room for the thumb.  I like to mark my increases with a stitch marker so I don't have to count: mark the first stitch of the first increase and the second stitch of the second increase and make your subsequent increases in the marked stitches.  Move your markers up in each row.

Row 11: Both bases should have 28 stitches in their final row.  Working into your base: HDC inc in the first two stitches and HDC around (30)
Row 12: HDC inc, HDC 2, HDC inc, HDC around (32)

Row 13: HDC inc, HDC 4, HDC inc, HDC around (34)

Row 14: HDC inc, HDC 6, HDC inc, HDC around (36)

Row 15: HDC inc, HDC 8, HDC inc, HDC around (38)

Row 16: HDC inc, HDC 10, HDC inc, HDC around (40)

Row 17: HDC inc, HDC 12, HDC inc, HDC around (42)

1st Ice Cream Scoop: In the first row, you will separate the thumb from the rest of the hand.  If it feels wrong for your hand, you can move the stitches around a little for more or less thumb room.

Row 18: Place a stitch marker into the 2nd and 15th stitch to pin them together. You will be working single crochets in the back loop and the 3rd bump of the HDCs in the row below.  With an ice creamy color, sc in the first stitch, then into the 16th stitch.  The thumb is now isolated from the rest of the hand.  (Try it on now and adjust it a little if it doesn't fit.  Make sure the hand has an even number of stitches.)  Sc around (28)

Row 19: HDC around (28)

Row 20: This row is the ruffle at the bottom of the scoop.  We will be working around the half double crochets from the previous row.  When you work into the top of the stitches, only work into the front loop.  You will use the back loop in row 21, so be careful not to use it now.  To create the ruffle, you'll be working 3D HDCs around the posts of each stitch and also into the top of the stitch and the sc from 2 rows ago.  Ch 2.  In the first stitch, work in the front loop only, HDC 2.  Then you will work 2 HDC around the post of the next HDC from the previous round.  (To do this, turn your work 90 degrees clockwise.)  Then put 2 HDC into the Sc from 2 rows ago.  Next, you'll work 2 HDC into the next post (turning counterclockwise helps here).  You've now completed one repeat of the ruffle stitch.  Keep working around until you get back to the beginning and slip into the first HDC.  You now need to 'get back' down to work into the back loops of HDCs from row 19. Slip stitch into the ch 2 at the beginning of the row and also into the back loop of the first stitch from row 19.
Row 21: HDC into the back loop only of round 19 and also the 3rd bump (adds stability) (28)

Row 22: HDC around (28) (For added texture, alternate regular HDCs and working into the back loop + third bump)

Row 23: HDC around (28) (For added texture, alternate working into the back loop + third bump and regular HDCs)

2nd Ice Cream Scoop: Start a new color, join in any stitch. (I like to keep my seam on the thumb side of the mitten.)

Row 24: Sc in the back loop and third bump of the HDC below (28)

Row 25: HDC around (28)

Row 26: Repeat row 20

Row 27: Repeat row 21

Row 28: Repeat row 22

Row 29: In this row you will work 2 HDC decreases and HDC around the rest of the stitches.  The decreases should be placed on either side when the mitten is laid flat.  Your stitch count may be different than mine.  (26)

3rd Ice Cream Scoop: With a new color, join in any stitch.

Row 30: Sc in the back loop and third bump (26).  If you want to leave a small hole for your finger to stick out so you can swipe your smart phone, sc around until you reach the place your finger will stick out.  Either chain 4-5 or scfr 4-5 and then skip 4-5 stitches and keep sc'ing around.

Row 31: HDC around, making 2 decreases, one in each side of the mitten (24)

Row 32: Work row 20 again

Row 33: HDC in the first two stitches, dec and repeat around (18)

Row 34: HDC, dec around (12) 

Row 35: Dec around and close with tail.  You're all done!

Paper Piecing Rick Sanchez

Although I've never done any quilting before, I'm fascinated by paper piecing.  Regular quilting seems a little too intimidating, but the paper thing I think I could do.  Rather than starting simple, I decided to try to figure out how to do it on a very complex design - what could go wrong?  This is probably another thing that I'll make and then never think about again, but it was fun.  I had a few false starts.  Designing paper piecing is harder than it looks.  I think I've finally got something that could be used to actually make something though.

The green lines are separate sections and the red are different pieces within sections.

Photo reference behind all the lines.

Lines and photo overlayed with section guide.

Just the section guide so you can kind of see how you would put it together.

I don't quilt so that could end up being worth nothing, but it was good experience I think.  I did quite a bit of looking at other people's block designs to figure out how to section off a big, complicated piece.  It makes sense to start by slicing through the whole picture so I broke it up into 4 larger vertical pieces and then went from there.  I feel like I was losing my eye for figuring it out after a while.  I have some issues with the P and Q sections... can you make a smaller section and then use it as one of your number in another, larger section?... I think it could work, you'd end up cutting out your pattern multiple times though so maybe that's why people don't do it.  

I do want to try some of this soon but my own design would probably be an awful place to start.  It would be fun to do a lot of different characters and make a quilt of them.

Knitted Octopus (pattern from Hansi Singh)

This pattern comes from Hansi Singh's wonderful book: Amigurumi Knits: Patterns for 20 Cute Mini Knits, which I highly recommend.  I received a copy from my lovely boyfriend when I first started knitting and I've really been too intimidated to try anything until now.  I was wondering if I would have a "can't believe I waited so long to do this" moment, but as complicated as these are, I'm glad I did wait.

Lurking background tomato

This is my first knitted amigurumi item.  (I also did the tomato from the same book but it's not nearly as exciting.)  It's strange how in crochet, I would consider amigurumi accessible to the beginner, but in knitting... not a chance.  This is probably the most complicated knitted item I've made so far.  Keeping all the different types of increases and decreases straight was a challenge.

Eye bulge extraordinaire

I did have some trouble with leaving gaps from incorrectly done increases (thanks for nothing, M1R & L, you tricky bastards!) and from picking up stitches to join the shapes together.  I like the way the construction is done, though.  It really eases you into the design and use of short rows which was new to me.  I like that the jacket of the book can be used as bookmarks for the tutorial section.  I had to make some sticky note pointers to locate each stitch guide on the pages though because they're a bit thrown together to save space.

Octopus and tomato

Inside the legs are pipe cleaners to give him some gripping and posing power.  I was worried about running out of the purple yarn so I added those green head stripes.  It was a near thing.  I decided to add the eyes, which are done separately with crochet (6sc in a ring, 12 sc, 8 sc), stuffed and embroidered with black and white in a little square.  Apparently that's how octopuses like to do their eyes.  In a square.

All done, ready for world domination

I may add some sequin or beaded suckers on later when I'm not feeling quite so glad to be done with the whole thing.  I did this over a series of evenings between different things so it was a lot of picking up and putting back down again.  Feeling happy to have this completed and a new skill learned.  My little project on ravelry.